As global beauty director of luxury retailer Net-A-Porter, Newby Hands has her finger on the pulse of the hottest fashion trends as well as the latest skincare and make-up that women are adding to their carts. While “clean beauty” remains the category du jour — “sales have grown by more than 400 percent” since Net-A-Porter launched it at the end of 2017 — it’s the looks dreamed up by make-up artists for the season’s fashion shows that continue to define the lipsticks, eye shadows and other colour cosmetics we just have to have.
“For the SS19 runways, I love McGrath’s look for Prada with ’60s feathered lashes and nude lips,” Hands says, referring to the influential make-up artist Pat McGrath whom top designers often entrust to bring their collections fully to life. “I also love the stunning winged look for the Versace runway. She used a metallic teal shade to create geometric wings, and kept the skin and lips simple to highlight the make-up of the eyes.”
Indeed, dramatic textures and colours were popular themes of the season: space-age silver eye shadows at Missoni, Swarovski-studded lash lines at Valentino, graphic swoops of eyeliner at Rochas and Marni, and spiky lashes paired with neon-bright lips at Chanel.
“Chanel’s girls always look strong and beautiful at the same time,” says global creative make-up and colour designer Lucia Pica of the make-up she created for the Chanel spring/summer ready-to-wear show. “In this collection you have a lot of inspiration in terms of textures and colours.”
Pica even took the idea for the bold lip hue — Rouge Allure Velvet No72 Infrarose — from one of the bags in the collection while creating a “glowy and sexy but still perfectly sophisticated” overall look to pair with the show’s beach-themed setting.
“I’m obsessed with the new shine-free skin texture — it just looks so elegant. “
Glowy and sexy seemed to be the order of the day when it came to the models’ complexions. “This season, facialist skin has returned: a truly glowing, natural look,” says Hands, who recommends a long-wearing formula such as Hourglass’s Vanish Seamless Finish Foundation. “Concealer is also essential for extra coverage and wear. My top tip is to finish your base and concealer by using a kabuki brush to lightly buff all over the face. This gives make-up that seamless and natural finish, making it look like perfect skin as opposed to perfect make-up.”
Pica achieved the Chanel look with the brand’s new Baume Essentiel highlighting balm in Sculpting and Transparent for a glossy finish, with just a bit of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks. She also blended the long- wearing concealer Le Correcteur de Chanel around the edges for a smooth, even complexion.
Lip colours this season ran the gamut from minimalist nudes at Dior and Stella McCartney to shimmering pink at Giorgio Armani and rose-tinted foil at Jeremy Scott. For Chanel, Pica layered the Rouge Allure Velvet lipstick with loose powder to get the bright, matt effect she wanted.
“Red will always be a classic,” Hands says when it comes to the dizzying array of lipstick choices this season. “It’s a timeless colour that makes a woman feel confident and powerful. Saying that, I would agree that many of our beauty customers who were initially buying red are certainly now venturing out and purchasing products in a variety of shades, with pink included.
“Nude pinks in particular are great options for women seeking a natural feminine look, and what’s great is you can wear them at any event, whether it’s during the daytime or in the evening,” she adds.
Such versatility is key when it comes to translating the make-up seen on the runways to something women can wear every day. “I always love the Tom Ford look, as it’s invariably one that translates so effortlessly into real life,”Hands says of the ever-elegant American brand that this season featured smokey eyes in shades of brown and barely there lips. “Also, I’m obsessed with the new shine- and gloss-free skin texture — it just looks so elegant and polished.”
And if she could create her dream kit for the spring/summer season? “My perfect palette would have a skin base that gives this season’s velvety skin finish: not shiny, not matt. Plus, the new peachy toned nudes for eyes and cheeks and lip — they’re so flattering to most skin tones,” Hands says. “Then to finish, a black mascara and the perfect matte red lip.”
Turn runway looks into reality with our picks from the spring/summer make-up collections.