Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 brought us new silhouettes, new accessories and, ultimately, brought us all back to the beloved fashion canons
Here are our picks of the best menswear at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023
Exposed midriffs from Fendi’s Spring 2022 will be missed. When looking through the looks of Silvia Venturini’s latest collection, one might assume that she ventured beyond the aesthetics she debuted last year. Such an assumption would be incorrect. Yes, Spring 2023 was inspired by the 90s Americana, and – yes – there were no crop tops this time around, yet, the languid triangles of skin peeking from under shirts, coats and blazers, tied the new season back to its last iteration perfectly. What stood out was the abundance of denim – or what looked like denim, at least. A blue jacket of fur with frayed inserts and a long coat with exaggerated pockets made entirely out of shaved mink (!) are perfect examples. At the same time, what appeared as khaki pants, were, in fact, ultra-thin Nappa leather trousers.
Saucers, urns and espresso cups were not what one might normally expect from a menswear collection. For Donatella Versace, however, seamlessly blending the revered hyper-sexual fashions with the latest Versace Home novelties, as if paying homage to the 1961-founded Salone di Mobile, is a creative choice both effortless and logical. Now on to the clothes themselves. Donatella revived the legendary archival Versace print – the frozen-in-lava death mask of Pompei that appeared atop acid-green shirts either by itself or, more often, intertwined with the beloved baroque motifs. We saw plenty of stripes in maroon and snakeskin prints with neon-orange inserts. And among the flock of colour and novation, there was still space for a tribute to Versace classics, like golden baroque vests and a black satin suit with metal hardware that evoked the imagery of Dua Lipa from the Spring 2022 women’s show.
In Etro’s Spring 2023 menswear collection, Kean Etro transformed his models into seaside-dwelling nymphs. It’s the hot boy summer we’ve been longing for. Majestic, floor-sweeping kimonos strutted alongside kaftans, low-cut cardigans and wide-open jackets, each one evoking the delicate, almost ritual-like poeticisms. There were also boxer shorts in satin and tiny speedos with brocade blouses tucked in them. Although such a styling choice might not have been favoured by the Twitter-residing fashion critics, this author found the look quite invigorating. Etro-beloved parsley was not dominant this season, passing the torch to classical floral prints à la Russian art nouveau.
It’s always enticing to spot and pick the little aesthetic choices that transpire the evolution of a given brand from one collection to the next. Dissecting Prada’s Spring 2023 men’s collection is the closest, perhaps, this author will ever get to being an evolutionary biologist. From last year, we see shorts paired with striped knits, a true novelty, however, were the gingham coats (sometimes layered under leather) and shirts (sometimes free of buttons). Another runway archetype was the suit man, of course – sleek, macabre, tasteful – done in the best traditions of the House.
Jeremy Scott’s very first all-menswear show since his appointment as the creative director of Moschino blended all the things we’ve come to associate with the house, namely: fluidity, colour, kink and artistry. The spring 2023 collection drew inspiration from the works of American artist Tomy Viramontes – the colourful outlines of folds on sweatshirts, bomber jackets and denim vests put an inextricable twist on menswear staples – in the best way possible. The pièce de resistance was, by far, the look 12 – yellow denim jacket and matching pants, styled with a box-pleated latex skirt, gloves, calf-length boots and a baseball cap. Perfect for a church Sunday.