Runway Report: Milan Fashion Week Autumn 2023 Day 3 Recap

The third day of Milan Fashion Week brought about the birth of an unexpected trend in the face of fur-trimmed sandals and mules and, with it, all the different flavours of nostalgia, from Vivetta’s study of Sophia Coppola to Gucci’s humble homage to itself. Keep reading to discover more and check out our Milan Fashion Week Day 2 picks here

Here are our picks of the most memorable shows from Milan Fashion Week Day 3:

Sportmax

The skies in Milan held a certain je ne sais quoi during the autumn 2023 season, an atmosphere that seemed to inspire a romanticism and bohemian spirit in the designers. Sportmax, too, joined in on this amorous reverie, presenting a collection of sophisticated desirability. Sandy beiges, pinks, animal prints and laces adorned garments with delicate furry trimming on shoes. The gathered asymmetric dresses with side cutouts evoked the imagery of Fergie in Nine and Margot Robbie in Babylon all at once. The tailoring assortment was to die for – from the hyper-contemporary boilersuit-esque numbers with double-waisted “pants”, to 90s-inspired power suits with shirt collars peeking from under padded blazers, to that one red vinyl look with a snake print – Sportmax concocted eras and influences together with the precision and fervour of a seasoned mixologist. 

Gucci

Refraction was the only way to describe Gucci’s autumn 2023 collection. This season represents the liminal space between Alessandro Michele’s last collection and Sabato De Sarno’s long-awaited debut ­­– it was as if the brand’s enduring heritage had been broken down into singular elements, be it a colour, the coveted GG motif, or a silhouette. The show featured Alessandro Michele’s frilly sheer gowns revised into midi styles and Tom Ford’s velvet suits cut short into pants, styled with a cropped mohair polo. The line also showcased fur-trimmed mules alongside a sensational purple fur coat, a sparkling dress of plastic paillettes and the unforgettable fuchsia gown with a daringly high slit. 

Jil Sander

Everyone said it was impossible, a day when the flame of hell had extinguished and the ice of springtime had come. Jil Sander’s Luke and Lucie Meier in all their courage had done the unthinkable – they had forsaken minimalism for a more eclectically inclined dreamy aesthetic. The autumn 2023 show  began with nothing other than a leather biker jacket, with the brand’s signature written along the closure. Then came monochromas and more curious pieces like necklaces and headgear. After that was an emerald-toned dress with velvet floral motifs, and a mohair coat – which only grew more curious as the show progressed, with pop-art inspired prints of candies and cherries, before graduating to op-art checks over dresses and coats. At the end, they presented a woollen cape with floral appliques, a silver brocade dress, and a white gown with bishop sleeves and intricately sewn sequin embellishments. It was clear—a new day had come for Jil Sander; an opulent era unafraid of glamor. 

Vivetta

As the show opened with a red cloak and its ruched collar, Vivetta Ponti had already proved her prowess in creating an aesthetic that flowed unceasingly through eras, mingling the style of the ’60s Shangri-Las with that of The Virgin Suicides. Even her empire-waisted dresses, though dainty in nature, appeared to have a masculine inclination. From the baby blue mini-dress in ruffles to the powder-pink gown, it seemed as if the romantic period of Oscar Wilde’s Canterville Ghost had arrived at her doorstep. All of such an exquisite collection was expertly paired with grey beanies and other ingenious details, like embellished bow motifs, making each piece of the range undoubtedly captivating.