Milan Fashion Week returned on February 23rd. This season, we are seeing both heritage and young Italian brands embracing innovation and pushing their artistic geniuses to the new heights of excellence.
Here are our picks for the most memorable shows from Milan Fashion Week day 4:
Now under the helm of the creative duo behind GmbH’s macabre eroticism, Trussardi witnessed its metamorphosis into a stylish beast that merges medieval references with futuristic sensibilities. Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby’s signature off-shoulder neckline made a guest appearance at Trussardi this season, along with intricately-constructed hoods, long coats with corset boning, fur and leather. Isik and Huseby’s thigh-high boots styled with short jackets were also seen on the runway, although alas, only on women this time.
Every fashion connoisseur, from the lands far and wide, was anticipating Matthieu Blazy’s first show for Bottega Veneta. Instead of completely rejecting the aesthetics of his predecessor, Blazy decided to build upon Daniel Lee’s signature silhouettes and textures. Spiky fur coats became bulbous, accessories switched padded silhouettes to finely woven intrecciato leather. Not only did the collection read as an expression of natural evolution from Lee’s reign, but also as an homage to movement itself, with dynamic details permeating every look, be it fringe hems, pleats or waist-tied sweaters.
There was a heavy dose of references in Yoon Ahn’s debut show at Milan fashion week – McQueen-esque tailoring, some references to the 90s Mugler, Paco Rabanne and even Versace. No doubt, the autumn 2022 collection was fully realised, with a plethora of silhouettes both erotic and utilitarian. The chainmail mini dresses walked alongside emerald-green skirt suits shearling coats and leather chaps. Ahn’s background in jewellery design (both for Ambush and Dior Homme) allows her to create highly structured silhouettes, where every detail holds its place, take the cropped shearling coat with a squared neckline over a bodycon dress, for example.
Autumn 2022 saw Lucie and Luke Meier of Jil Sander embrace softness – in an unequivocally Gen-Z fashion, of course. The Jil Sander girl will now be strutting down the streets in wool skirts styled with ankle-length boots or, perhaps, a floor-length floral appliqué dress under a boxy blazer. Exaggerated sailor collars, already seen in numerous shows this season both in Milan and New York, have been adopted by Jil Sander for the autumn 2022 collection – paired with yellow suits and mid-length coats.