On February 11th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances.
Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 2 of New York Fashion Week:
Jason Wu reimagines fancy dress in the times of pandemic. Wu’s autumn 2022 collection draws inspiration from fashion illustrations of the 1950s; there is a sense of intimacy and individuality to every look. Tie-dyed frocks in satin play to the literality of the fall landscapes with their orange and purple palette. Slim cigarette pants appeared on the runway with satin bustiers and fluffy overskirts – a take that has reached the apex of its ubiquity during the latest couture season. Bows, ruffles and frills colour the collection with a sense of unadulterated joy and that Old-Hollywood sensualité.
Christian Siriano’s autumn 2022 show was a true ode d’exubérance. The monochromatic collection, largely in blues – titled Victorian Matrix – is meant to challenge the very physicality and reality of garments. We start from patent-leather suits and dresses, slowly progressing to denim two-pieces and coats. With the progression of the show, the silhouettes get more formal and the colours more restrained. Siriano’s now-classic hooded gown saw itself reinvented once again as the show’s grand finale, worn by the designer’s immutable muse – Coco Rocha.
Cool and homey – is how one can describe Brandon Maxwell’s autumn 2022 collection. Peak-shouldered shawl necklines on dresses and bustiers are an exciting novelty this season – a new ‘it’ silhouette in the making, perhaps. Gowns, styled with oversized cable-knit sweaters, offer a slightly toned-down and more mature version of Maxwell’s sui generis brand of glamour, switching his typical vocabulary of aspiration with that of relatability.
This season, Kim Shui continues exploring the lace and lingerie-adjacent silhouettes – but – with an erotic aughts-inspired twist. The use of colourful tweed in the forms of crop-jackets and bustiers was a lighthearted Chanel reference, while the faux fur lapel details in greens and pastels read more like an homage to Raven-Symoné. Despite the collection presenting itself as ‘cute’, it still felt quite raw – unapologetic use of colour, sequin-clad lace-up pants in military green and a sheer qipao-inspired dress all emphasized the direction of choice exquisitely.