The most glamorous season of the year – Paris Fashion Week – is finally here.
Here are our picks for the most memorable shows from Paris Fashion Week Day 4:
The rising star of fashion upcycling, Marine Serre, once again reinvents her brand identity without straying too far away from the canons she established at the moments of said brand’s conception. As common in Serre’s previous collections, we see clashing prints and textures, created through the stitching of various discarded garments and textiles together, on everything from cinched coats to hooded gowns. A playful attitude to gender expression has always strutted hand in hand with the designer’s sustainability ethos – and – during the autumn 2022 presentation, it looked not only familiar but correct and logical.
The anticipation for JW Anderson’s autumn 2022 show for LOEWE started with reporters receiving bizarre invitations written on pieces of latex shoved into tin cans. The interesting invitations couldn’t prepare anybody for the scale of Bizarro Anderson had devised this season. The collection itself dived headfirst into surrealism. Among the first few looks to walk the runway was a trapeze dress with a car (!) embedded into it under the hem. Latex – naturally – was in the spotlight, as a material of choice for mini dressed and bustiers of sleeveless maxis.
VTMNTS, a younger cousin of Vetements, is Demna Gvasalia’s brother Guram’s new ground for experimentation. VTMNTS autumn 2022 revealed the allure of shoulders-heavy tailoring. Boxy suits with proprietary stitching at the shoulders hid skin-tight turtlenecks that bled into gloves. At times, thin strips of underwear were peeking from under the mid-waisted trousers (seems that whoever keeps denying the prevalence of the exposed underwear trend on the runways gets less and less room to manoeuvre). Apart from layering and formidable silhouettes, it was enticing to observe a range of cropped puffers that took the central idea of the prominent shoulder to a place more inventive.
Softness is not very often a word that comes to mind when talking about Alexandre Vauthier’s collections. This season Vauthier wanted, if not completely eviscerate the paradigm of his creating, but at least provide a shift in perspective. Vauthier’s autumn 2022 collection stemmed directly from his couture, as is always the case with the designer. Soft, ruffled dresses with asymmetric hemlines appeared alongside slouchy (as much as Vauthier could allow it) suits and one leopard coat. Knit sweater with a feather trim read more Vauthier than anything else.