The most glamorous season of the year – Paris Fashion Week – is finally here.
Here are our picks for the most memorable shows from Paris Fashion Week Day 5:
Skin exposure is one of those themes that can get very kitsch very quick. Not the case with Hermès. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski blended class with sexiness, while also avoiding any literal references to all things equestrian. There were bodysuits, engineered with vertical sheer panels, low-cut blouses with ruffled collars and masterful leather overalls fitted to the body. Apart from the sensual skin-bearing looks, the autumn 2022 collection a plethora of knits, some of which included cut-outs at the shoulders and necks.
Once again, Bruno Sialelli’s Lanvin is all about Art Deco. The theme, in many ways, can be tricky to reinvent, given its ubiquity in both 20th century and modern fashion interpretations. Sialelli’s take, however, stands its ground. Mostly focused on evening wear, the collection created a chronological timeline of silhouettes, from bulky fur coat concealing polka-dotted tights to majestic sheer gowns with ruffled hems. Occasionally, jewel-toned monochromes were switched for cubist-almost prints that, interestingly, only accentuated the neo-noir ambiance of the show.
Andreas Kronthaler’s collection for Vivienne Westwood was so delightful in its theatrics. Westwood’s creative right hand and a loving husband, Kronthaler created a collection rich in archival, costume and classical art references. The bulky layered looks with wide tartan scarves and hoods evoked the imagery of a British artist Daniel Lismore. It was not all West End and museum artefacts, some looks employed sportswear fabrics and cuts in the form of gowns short at the front, others paid homage to Westwood’s punk roots through graphic shirts, waist coats and feather-trimmed skirts.
Over the years, Ann Demuelemeester has polished her ‘sad poet’ aesthetics to perfection – all that, while rarely exploring beyond the comforts of a black palette. This time, the member of Antwerp Six showed elongated vests and vest-dresses equipped with barely-there shirt collars that revealed sleek funnels of skin. Some more palletable to the general audience staples included boiled wool and leather coats tailored after blazers and wrap-around jackets tailored after kimonos.