Hot off the heels of New York Fashion Week comes the shows on the other side of the pond. We look to the designers showing at the British fashion capital for the looks of the new season. For those who missed the shows, catch all the action in our recap of the best looks we spotted from the runways of London Fashion Week Autumn 2020.
Burberry Creative Director Riccardo Tisci explores British fashion following the recent Brexit, focusing on the classic English theme with its iconic checks and plaid on suiting silhouettes and sporty separates. The house stayed true to its heritage as its neutral palette of beige, tan and black dominated the catwalk. Unlike its previous shows, Burberry’s line up of models were the most high-profile A-listers with the likes of Kendall Jenner, Bella and Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Irina Shayk.
Described as “gentle rebellion” by the designer herself, Victoria Beckham was all about English tweed, chunky overcoats, and huge sleeves this season. “I was thinking about the tension between refinement and rebellion. I was inspired by the different ideas of women – different characters, different moments and different attitudes – with no restrictions. It’s about breaking the rules within the context of the brand codes and losing my inhibitions,” the former Spice Girl describes. That translated to cutout knits, reinvented suiting cuts, thigh high leather boots, and shorter skirts – a changeup from her iconic elegant midi length dresses from previous collections.
Autumn/Winter 2020 was all about the fall of Adam and Eve – the triangle – the biblical symbol for the eye of God on the runway of Christopher Kane’s show. “The triangle is the most powerful, strongest shape in nature,” the designer explains. The triangulation is seen recurring throughout the collection in both bold and minute ways, from cutouts to motifs to slits and splices.
Size matters. At least that’s the case at JW Anderson’s Autumn 2020 show. “Mixed-media art, taken from the familiar to the beautifully strange, blowing them up to extreme volumes” Anderson describes. A lot is oversized in the collection – silhouettes, sleeves, collars, lapels, to even the Cuban chain detailing on accessories. The trench coats, tea-length skirts, bulbous dresses and suit jackets are all blown out of proportion. Pair the exaggerated size with tiers of metallic tinsel and you’ve got JW Anderson’s take on nouveau chic.
The king of experimental textiles, Erdem Moralioglu presents a collection of varying textures juxtaposed against each other in individual looks for Autumn 2020. Inspired by photographer and designer Cecil Beaton’s portraits of the 1920s high society, Erdem went down the route of exaggerated and fantastical. Sheer metallics, brocades, flowing silks, floral embroideries and feather headpieces ruled the catwalk this season.