The accessories from Giorgio Armani’s autumn/winter 2022 women’s collection offer a peek into an era that once defined the new coil of artistic expression
“Pass me a glass
And give me a bow
And drink to the countess nobody now”
Caroline O’Connor sang in Broadway’s Anastasia as Countess Lily Malevsky-Malevitch, a noble who fled the Bolsheviks to live out her fading glory in Paris – the indisputable capital of art deco – but a couple of years before the famed Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes took place in the city of lights.
And the spirits of Art Deco are the claws that hold the jewel of fashion this season, which is reflected truly by Giorgio Armani’s autumn/winter 2022 range. The footwear and accessories the house devises for the women’s collection are in a league of their own. As always, one should start with the shoes, which, in typical Armani fashion, substitute the epochal Spanish and tap heels with acrylic elements for a slightly futuristic take on the main theme. Some calf-length boots have sheer inserts with a rhomboid lattice overlay – crystals adorning its every apex – while the thigh-high numbers in suede, which look like a chimaera of stockings and loafers, float in the air thanks to their clear heels.
And now on with the bags. The star of the collection is, of course, the crescent-shaped canvas piece with an embroidery somewhat reminiscent of the Cubism art – this author is reminded of Simultaneous Windows on the City (1912) by French artist Robert Delaunay, whether such a parallel was intentional or otherwise. The collection is also rich with croc-embossed leather pieces in delicious glossy emerald and jet-black – clutches, satchels, handbags, everything one’s discerning heart might desire.
Art Deco may have been reinvented-to-the-tatters over the years but Giorgio Armani looks at it with ingenuity in mind, as conveyed through the structure-defying construction of garments and accessories. The collection is filled with references that pay homage to the most prolific elements from the days of the well-forgotten past, made anew for the modern woman today.
CHATER HOUSE, CENTRAL
HARBOUR CITY, TSIM SHA TSUI