The Giorgio Armani autumn/winter 2022 menswear incarnation recalls the 1930s, while borrowing a couple of modern references. Under a metaphorical microscope we dissect and study his various parts, while conjecturing what his life might be like.
Time and again, Giorgio Armani invents a new coil of elegance with its menswear. The autumn/winter 2022 collection is a toolbox that inspires the modern male to build his variation on a 1930s archetype. Jewel tones, velvet and silk galore, reimagining of classic silhouettes, each element bristling with nobility. But who is the Armani man? Which books does he read and art shows does he attend? What champagne does he sip with his truffles?
Perhaps he enjoys dressing up in a navy velvet suit with slate-grey silk shirt beneath, while leafing through Evelyn Waugh’s Vile Bodies as he awaits guests in his study – not a large crowd, but a tight circle of close friends. He has a soft spot for chevrons, never in the guise of an old-fashioned three-piece, but rather as a pattern adorning the light sweater he wears under his double-breasted dinner jacket, pinstriped or solid. The inverted V stripes naturally cross to his other staples – a light bomber jacket, perhaps, or a knit top he usually pairs with a coat.
He’s the last to arrive at a function and the first to leave. He frequents galleries, never missing a Cubist exhibition – French artist Robert Delaunay is his favourite. On the occasion of a vernissage, he’d break his three-piece, in which the jacket and pleatless straight trousers meet a black velvet waistcoat graced with an asymmetric chevron collar.
Although the Armani gentleman is a perpetual bachelor, you’d be wise not to confuse him with a debauched dandy. And though the glamour of cityscapes fills him with joie de vivre, at times he finds solace in the countryside. While not a fan of bloodsports, he’d occasionally chase a fox through the woods. Whether behind the wheel or on horseback, he’d be dressed in a zip-up wool jacket with a crisp white shirt underneath (tie optional) and matching trousers, their cuffs either tucked inside the riding boots or breaking just above his leather derbies.