It almost felt like a match made in heaven when Francesca Amfitheatrof joined Louis Vuitton three years ago to helm its jewellery and watch department. Amfitheatrof exudes strength, confidence and energy in the way she carries herself, and it translates into her work.
She had a four-year stint at Tiffany & Co as the brand’s first female design director, where she brought a new sense of modernity to the brand through the introduction of the Tiffany T and the Tiffany HardWear collections. At Louis Vuitton, her influence endures. Her first fine-jewellery collection, B Blossom, sees the designer reinterpreting the house’s famous Monogram flower in new proportions and in an exciting array of colours.
Amfitheatrof designs jewellery unmistakeably for the modern woman, who recognises and is unapologetic about the strength of her own femininity. B Blossom, which was her debut collection for Louis Vuitton, was really a signal for what was to come, as Amfitheatrof took into her own hands the job of revitalising the brand’s jewellery offerings. Taking the blossom motif designed by Georges-Louis Vuitton in 1896, she turned it into beads, with the logo stamped in gold and diamonds over smooth and sculptural spheres of white agate, pink opal, onyx and malachite.
Logomania as we know it peaked in the ’80s and ’90s era of success and excess, and since then it’s yo-yoed in and out of fashion. The B Blossom collection feels very much in trend, though – youthful and energetic, the jewellery is instantly recognisable, but not over the top.
This is very much to Amfitheatrof’s credit, as she’s managed to combine the opulence, power and audacity of the logo with a more refined and delicate take on the jewellery. The new line includes rings, bracelets, bangles, earrings, pendants and chain necklaces that are light and perfect for stacking. There are also chunkier and more statement-making pieces, including an appealing signet-ring design. The medley of coloured stones is pleasing to the eye – they look good however you want to mix and match them.
It’s also interesting to note that the new fine-jewellery collection is designed to be inclusive – not just for the inclusion of the signet ring, which tend to be seen as men’s jewellery, but also for the fact that the campaign embraces a diverse cast, including Indya Moore, a transgender model and actress who’s making waves in the industry.
Released in 2019, the B Blossom Collection was a promising start. Following her debut act, Amfitheatrof has continuously delighted us with the bold and contemporary LV Volt collection with its graphic and unisex designs, then the Riders of the Knights high-jewellery collection that recalled medieval heroines and gave us Joan of Arc vibes, in armour-inspired designs, amulets and bejewelled chain mail.