On the final day of New York Fashion Week Michael Kors channeled ‘Urban Bohemia’ while Badgley Mishka presented ‘Romantic Futurism’
Here are our picks from the most memorable shows from New York Fashion Week day 6:
Urban Bohemia and Timeless glamour were on the menu for autumn ’23 at Michael Kors, as the designer looked back to specifically what and who influenced him while growing up in Greenwich Village in the 70’s. The collection was dedicated to his original influencers: Gloria Steinem, Tina Turner, Yoko Ono and Jane Fonda. The result was a collection formed of powerful silhouettes imbued with a strong 70’s vibe: knee high boots styled with tiny shorts, flowing bell sleeved dresses, a divine melange of cashmere capes and caped jackets, hip hugging leather belts, all the while staying true to the hard-won Kors DNA of clean lines and jet-set glamour. Whilst the collection was inspired by revolutionary women, what actually felt revolutionary was that Kors ditched the exacting standard of the youth-obsessed fashion industry to create wearable, desirable clothes that even 88-year-old Gloria Steinman, seated in the front row, would want in her wardrobe.
For autumn ’23 masters of their signature gala-gowns, Mark Bagley and James Mishka were all about ‘Romantic Futurism’, aiming to take “the brand’s romanticism into a new version for the future”. Inspired by the early 1900’s Italian artistic and political movement which saw the past as oppressive and aimed to celebrated modern day advances in industry by creating art that captured movement and speed. They delivered a strong evening-wear collection with sequinned suits, ankle grazing gowns and figure-hugging silhouettes. Created with a paired back colour palette based on the five elements of Earth, Air, Water, Fire and Metal (typical of the movement) and a technical upgrade of their signature georgette and satin textures to facilitate movement in the clothes. Even if the theme did get a little lost at times, it certainly felt like an interesting new direction for the brand.
“It’s my fifth anniversary, and it’s been a tough five years, so now, this is my renaissance of going through the dark ages and into enlightenment”. Despite the gruelling hardships of the pandemic felt by most in the fashion industry, Anderson, still a relatively young brand, self-assuredly delivered his ‘Renaissance’ collection. European influence permeated the collection felt through Grecian-inspired flowing metallic dresses, rich purple satins recalling gowns of the roman emperors, and palatial inspired gold brocade mesh fabrics, all the while interspersed with skimpy, see-through black dresses in lace and crochet. Whatever Anderson’s influence, the clothes in this collection held their own, while presenting a comprehensive solution for sultry sophisticated evening-wear.
Closing the New York Fashion Week Schedule was Brooklyn born and raised Raul Lopez of Luar whose finale-worthy collection entitled “Calle Pero Elegante” was dedicated to the powerful women that surrounded him growing up. A true master in creating extraordinary out of the ordinary: double breasted coats were reinvented by adding tens of shoulder pads, plaid fabric was turned into a red carpet worthy hooded gown, long knitted dresses turned sci-fi through precise cut out details. This collection was not only a fitting testament to the commanding women in his life, but also his talents as a designer, proving he merited the most coveted spot on the Fashion Week Calendar.