Day 3 of Paris fashion week saw sensational surrealism at Schiaparelli’s first ready-to-wear show. Chloé looked to the Baroque for inspiration while Off-White went to the moon. Keep reading to discover more and make sure to check out our picks for day 2 here.
The fashion world has been in eager anticipation of the first ready-to-wear show of the famed couture house Schiaparelli. Presented in an elegant and intimate Parisian salon in place Vendôme to a mellow soundtrack of Sade, Roseberry’s 36 look collection didn’t need any dramatic staging or celebrity-filled front rows, the clothes spoke for themselves. For autumn ’23 he wanted to take us back to a time when creativity was the focus of big fashion houses as he presented “antidote to that mass feeling.” Whilst paying respect to the houses key codes and motifs: gold jewellery, keyhole shaped cut-outs and surreal inspired accessories, he did offer some more down-to-earth options. A matching denim two-piece and a silk quilted puffer jacket, with fabrics updated to be more lightweight in jersey and knit. The merchandising and accessories were fabulous: gold plated toes on black velvet stilettos, keyhole shaped clutch bags and glamazon velour turbans.
With a background in streetwear and often described as a “skater kid” Matthew M. Williams appointment at Givenchy in June 2020 was met with mixed reactions, since covid interrupted a few seasons, he has yet to make a bang on the fashion week calendar. Autumn ’23 was presented in a cool minimalist white box setting. The beginning looks of oversized yet elegantly tailored outwear were followed by grungy cargo skirts layered over trousers and paired with bomber jackets. There were some red carpet worthy finale gowns – a black densely appliquéd mini dress stood out. Overall the collection felt edgy but also slightly in-cohesive. Despite enlisting the help of Carine Roitfeld as brand consultant, it feels like the Givenchy woman is still being defined.
Gabriela Hearst keeps to her central philosophy of designing elegant wearable clothes for “grown up women”, presented in a minimal setting and always with her commitment to sustainability at the forefront. For autumn ’23 she was inspired by Artemisia Gentileschi, a 17th century Renaissance painter from the baroque era, as evidenced by an ankle grazing harlequin-pattern coat and a monochrome dress with an exaggerated basque waistline. Whilst still retaining the signature bohemian feel with floor-length white lace dress that revealed the body underneath and white crocheted style dresses with angel sleeves. The collection echoed her sentiments backstage “I like it that nothing is gimmicky. They’re not clothes for Instagram”.
Ibrahim Kamara’s first show with full control of Off-White since the death of Virgil Abloh was staged in space themed setting of red sand and rocks. Taking attendees to the moon, the collection was entitled Lunar Delivery. Models sported tight corn rows and curved futuristic sunglasses lending them an alien look whilst outwear and knits were studded by circular grommets. Thick zippers and waist belts informed the body conscious silhouettes and fluted hemlines gave the collection a slightly elegant feel. As Naomi Campbell closed the show to much whooping from the crowd, Kamara’s ascent was completed.