The last day of Paris fashion week told us tales of Chanel’s fascinations with camelia, Glenn Martens’s extravagant denim fantasy and Miu Miu’s philosophy of dressing. Keep reading to discover more and make sure to check out our picks for day 7 here.
Here are our picks of the most memorable shows from Paris Fashion Week Day 8:
“The camelia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the house,” said Chanel’s appointed protector, Virginie Viard, describing her autumn 2023 collection. The mise-en-scène, in line with Chanel’s dedication and ingenuity, was a spectacle in its own right – a large camellia provided the stage for an outpouring of still more camellias. They flooded greyscale dresses, appeared as leather sculptures on the collar of a jacket, transformed into white corsages and were reduced to polka dots upon the knits. To re-emphasise the bohemian-meets-equestrian codes that Viard has grown to adore, she turned camelias into silk-thread embroidery upon a majestic lace camisole dress styled with horse-riding boots and traced them with beads on a cropped suit in which lapels mimicked petals.
“The point with this collection was to look at fashion from a personal point of view,” said Miuccia Prada ahead of her autumn 2023 show for Miu Miu. She sought to push the boundaries of perception with her designs, such as bedazzled underwear with a beige knit top for Emma Corrin, who was the closer for the show. Jackets were layered atop one another and paired with sheer skirts and who could forget the teeny-tiny shorts with bulky shearling coats and airy blouses. Miu Miu’s commitment to top heavy silhouettes, presented in a way, in which its extremity is justified by its innate intelligence.
Glenn Martens’s love affair with denim may have started at Diesel, but it also found its rightful spot in the pantheon of Y/Project. The autumn 2023 show revealed Martens’s journey of experimentation – denim as slashed jackets, denim as bombers sculpted with wires, denim as embroidery and, of course, denim as sheer gowns. The brand’s signature tasteful nudity wasn’t left off either, appearing this time as photographic prints of various sexual positions warped on themselves on sweatshirts and dresses. The bran’s evolution seemed clearer than ever – close to the show’s finale, two looks appeared in which floor-sweeping denim robes with deliciously high slits were paired with denim boots that flowed seamlessly into jeans.