Mystical and dark yet gracious and beautiful, the Dior Haute Couture autumn/winter 2019-2020 runway took place at the Avenue Montaigne, Paris, a historical place for the first house’s atelier and storefront.
This time, Dior Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborates with feminist American artist Penny Slinger in creating a magical black and white scenography for the show, including a 15-meter high tree sculpture in the staircase and a 2500m² of wallpaper with original motifs for walls and ceilings.
Chiuri took inspiration from caryatids, the poetic statues of women used as pillars on Greek-style buildings across Paris, which resulted in cape dresses and silhouettes galore. The silver Grecian-style gown is one of Chiuri’s fashion reinterpretations of the caryatids.
Structured and padded coats, suits, cocktail dress and bustier ball gowns adorned the runway. The collection also embraces femininity as exaggerated belted jackets with enormous sleeves are becoming the key looks of the collection. Almost every look are topped off with veils or fishnet tights. Rare shots of colors surprise the almost all black couture collection, without changing the powerful and bold mood of the show. However, lightweight materials such as feathers and light laces embellished across the sheer couture dress accentuate the black and bold pieces. “Now we can make a corset that is comfortable too,” Chiuri added.
Chiuri is also inspired by the late Austrian-American architect Bernard Rudofsky, who writes a passage in 1947 titled “Are Clothes Modern?” studied about the relationship of building and couture. Chiuri grabbed the inspiring words and interpret them into one of the first couture pieces that opened the show.
Taking it further, a dollhouse dress in a gold version of Dior’s Avenue Montaigne townhouse, made by Slinger herself, closed the show.