A look at Hermès' Hors-Série 2021 savoir faire collection

Fashion editor Jacquie Ang connects the dots to uncover the powerful forces that drive this remarkable womenswear release.

Like the maison she represents, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski is an understated designer whose approach emits a sublime elegance, a lofty practice on restraint deftly balanced with an uplifting sense of freedom. So when the artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear staged an extraordinary triptych spanning New York, Paris and Shanghai for Autumn/Winter 2021, it spoke volumes.

Beadwork embroidery, reminiscent of the maison’s Mosaïque motif evoking the tiles in the Hermès headquarters, embellish this flowing viscose and silk crepe dress

Braided borders and inserts in sumptuous lambskin elevate this equestrian-inspired cotton canvas jacket

“I wanted this three-act performance to be our way of keeping a record of these extraordinary times here,” she elaborated on her explorations in the ways of breathing life into clothes through the contemporary woman in movement. “I wanted to know how the collection could feed off and contribute to the energy of three very different cities. We wanted artists to take over the project and interpret my work using their own language, their own discipline.” Based on their individual expressions of female power, local choreographers Madeline Hollander and Gu Jiani were chosen for the New York and Shanghai segments respectively. “There was something exalted in their approach to dance.”

This two-piece ensemble, composed of a blouse with lavallière collar and pyjama-style pants, redefines laid-back luxury with the Éperon d’Or bandana motif recast in beadwork and sequin embroidery

Raised polka-dot embroideries coupled with inserts in perforated lambskin endow this stretch wool crepe dress with an interesting surface texture

The spirit of resilience and reinvention takes on a new resonance in this exceptional Hors-Série (“Special Edition” in French) savoir faire women’s ready-to-wear collection. Vanhée-Cybulski keeps the modern-day Amazon in her mind, reimagining the strong women who stride forward amid the chaotic new world order. Through these Hors-Série pieces elevated with elan, she renews our appreciation of time as true luxury, while patience and precision work hand-in-hand, unhurried and unfazed in this complicated world.

A pattern from French artist Shan Merry’s Lift Profilé finesse silk scarf is hand-painted on this pleated lambskin skirt – a skill Hermès analogises to “dancing on a tightrope without a safety net”

This belted coat in jacquard doubleface cashmere stars the H en Biais motif, embroidered to create a raised effect in fine lambskin

Vanhée-Cybulski honours intricate techniques that demand perseverance, as well as gestures that demonstrate finesse by working them into existing fabrics, assuring them a fresh lease of life. Blouses and trousers are given a dash of dazzle with beadwork and extra-fine glass glitter embroidery executed with needle in hand following traditional techniques. Bayeux lace blouses are made with a pair of spindles twisting and spinning the fabric round and round. Phenomenal details that are a nod to Hermès’ historic patterns further accentuate the distinguished collection, a sartorial salve that keeps the faith.

(All images: Camille Vivier for Hermès Hors-Série 2021 collection)

This story first appeared in Prestige Online – Singapore