“How can we continue to be creative in these chaotic times?” Lucas Ossendrijver asks. “We are continuously inundated with information, we move from one thing to the next without stopping, we have a limited attention span. Normally, I try to fight trends and try other things but the only answer to the question, in the end, was to accept this movement and use it positively to continue moving forward. This gave meaning to the notion of zapping from one thing to the next and combining opposing elements to see what could happen. You can always see poetry, even in chaos. I believe it’s my duty, after all, to find softness and elegance in everything.” – Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin’s menswear designer.
In Lanvin SS18 collection by Lucas Ossendrijver, clothes combine two naturally opposing elements, workwear and tailoring, the very heritage of the house of Lanvin. This unusual alliance creates newness throughout the collection. Suit jackets have been made in traditional clothes factories. The sleeves may be in Prince of Wales check but the body of the piece is made in workwear fabric. A slightly creased Japanese cotton jumpsuit with Velcro pockets is worn under a more classic coat, slightly oversized. Despite the initial influence of workwear, these jumpsuits create an overall effect that is somewhat unexpected. Blending, mixing, merging… Here, elegance is born from experimentation, like this jockey jacket with red appliqué checks, like a contemporary embroidery.
The sportswear element is diffused in Lanvin SS18 menswear collection. From a jumpsuit cut in half to create jacket and trousers, to a poncho in nylon and silk as light as a breeze. On a coat, a technical membrane is bonded over traditional fabric, the whole combined with knitted patterns and motifs. Under a nylon parka, clever zips turn fishing-inspired shorts into trousers. A bag’s leather, as fine as paper, is bonded with chiffon.
Experimenting with fabric and tailoring research are very dear to Lucas Ossendrijver and can be found throughout the Lanvin SS18 collection. Striped t-shirts and sweatshirts are cut for a drape effect, like a trompe l’oeil. The shoulder seam on a polo shirt is simply moved to bring all the volume of the top towards the front.
From typography, painted pieces, accessories to sneakers, here are the pieces that become the main trend this year.
Diving sneakers have become the new essentials from the Lanvin SS18 collection. Lucas Ossendrijver as Lanvin’s menswear designer has made the sneakers in a new combination of colours and fabrics. With the crossroads of sport, style, and technical, it can adapt to all the season’s styles.
With or without contrasting laces, often with technical inlays, they come plain or printed, with many colour combinations and calfskin versions to accessorise a look with a genuinely modern touch. Make a choice before you hunt them down!
Straight from the lost world, natural or more stylised, often symbolised by its skeleton, the dinosaur makes its appearance in the SS18 pre-collection in its most phantasmagoric forms. It livens up polo shirts and Hawaiian shirts are printed or embroidered on the front of a t-shirt or on a blazer pocket. It walks calmly across a key ring, clings to belt loops, sits on a patch on a coloured cap or adorns a multi-pocket rucksack.
A dinosaur also shows up on a parka and a jacquard jumper, its outline printed on sportswear or embroidered patches on leather and fabric jackets. The Lanvin dinosaur gives cadence to the collection’s colours, opening up the doors of the imagination.
Aubergine, grass green or royal blue, bright red or orange…colour sets the tone in the SS18 pre-collection. On this backdrop of washed cotton, seersucker, gabardine or technical wool, Lucas Ossendrijver writes his motto for this season, “Enter Nothing”. These are the words of the day, affixed to jackets and parkas, written on sleeves or around the waist.
Symbols and the “L” of Lanvin are embroidered on washed velvet and embossed on a leather badge. Sometimes sprayed or printed on sportswear, the letters clash together, back to front, making up codes, a nod to easy-to-wear, graphic fashion that is constantly moving, like the symbol called “Speed L” as if lain atop the piece – ready to go.
HAND PAINTED PIECES
On a shirt, printed faces are those of anonymous people encountered in the street whose portraits were painted by a Montmartre artist. From all these mixtures is born a certain poetry which impregnates the entire collection, from the dragon print to the accessories, like the hand-shaped pendants created in 3D and covered with leather. A bag has been designed around a gun holster. But instead of a pistol, the bag carries a flute.