You can always count on Marc Jacobs to end New York Fashion Week with a bang. The designer, whose extravagant sets, famously designed by Stefan Beckman, often rival those of his counterparts across the ocean, is a master at creating magic. For spring/summer 2017, he turned one of Manhattan’s storied concert halls, Hammerstein Ballroom, into a starry night: models circled on a puddle-strewn stage under a canopy of hundreds of lightbulbs.
As soon as the first notes of “Born Slippy”, the ’90s hit from the soundtrack of cult film Trainspotting, blasted from the speakers, you knew that this was going to be a trip. And what a trip it was.
Cosplay, glam rock, ’70s disco and rave culture were only some of the references you could glimpse in this cacophonous visual mashup.
Each look came accessorised with towering platforms, similar to the ones Jacobs showed last season, while each model sported dreadlocks in crazy hues.
From satin to sequins and brocades, every surface was shiny or embellished – even the tights featured tiny embroideries or came in rainbow stripes. Some of the pieces were printed with whimsical drawings, which also appeared on shoes and bags and are the results of a collaboration with artist Julie Verhoeven.
Hemlines were super short, whether for babydoll dresses or culottes worn with bomber jackets. Denim and camouflage also made appearances, giving the show the feel of a street parade of nightlife misfits and eccentric renegades. Although this maximalist tour de force will definitely need a few nips and tucks before it makes it to the sales floor, it was an over-the-top statement that injected a much-needed dose of fun into the normally low-key and a tad bland vibe of the New York shows.