The beginner’s guide on how to start your very own vintage jewellery collection

While there is an undeniable charm about vintage jewellery, shopping for it can be intimidating for first-time buyers. We ask the experts for their top tips on starting a collection.

Do your research

“As with buying any piece of valuable jewellery, it would be best if you have some basic knowledge of what you are buying: Understand the gemstones as well as the various quality factors. Learn how to check for hallmarks indicating the purity of gold and possible provenance, as these would significantly affect the value of the piece.” – Goh Ying Li, Creative Director at La Putri

“Read related books, articles and magazines on vintage jewellery. Then, check out vintage jewellery exhibitions or shops, so you can see the actual pieces and feel the different characteristics of jewellery from various periods. This will help you identify your own style and period preference. For example, some may like the delicacy of Edwardian design, while others prefer the retro style of the ’40s.” – Terry Chu, Phillips’ Head of Jewellery for Asia

Speak to the experts

“The best way to start a collection is to get involved: Go to viewings and auctions, see what sells and what doesn’t, learn from the specialists. This will help you understand value and you can witness market trends first-hand. One of the most important takeaways for a potential collector is to ask questions and handle as much jewellery as you can, to build confidence in what you are possibly acquiring.” – Daphne Lingon, Christie’s Head of Jewellery for the Americas 

“It can be very hard to distinguish between a genuine vintage piece and a good copy, so I’d encourage collectors to learn as much as possible before buying. The more you see, the more you learn. Speak to experts and ask how they authenticate the piece. There are many jewellery auctions and vintage jewellery fairs around the world every year. Visit them and practise using a jeweller’s 10X loupe to look at the different marks and signs – play detective!” – Yvonne Chu, Acting Head of Department, Jewellery, at Sotheby’s Asia 

Start buying at auctions 

“Attending jewellery auction viewings will not only help you become familiar with what is on the market, but also provides the perfect introduction to the wide range of styles on offer – from rare 18th-century pieces right through to modern and contemporary designs. The diversity at auctions is hard to beat.” – Jean Ghika, Global Director of Jewellery at Bonhams 

When in doubt, go Art Deco 

“The market for Art Deco jewellery has always been strong, with signed pieces by Cartier from this period performing exceptionally well at auctions.” Daphne Lingon, Christie’s Head of Jewellery for the Americas

“Art Deco pieces with typical geometric outlines or bold colour contrasts are always popular because they have an iconic style.” – Terry Chu, Phillips’ Head of Jewellery for Asia

“Most of my clients start with Art Deco jewellery – diamond double clips or diamond bracelets are very popular for first-time visitors to our store. It’s a great look, very versatile, usually priced more attractively than modern diamond brooches and very well made. Compared to jewellery from some other periods, it’s easier to gauge the basic intrinsic value of Art Deco diamond and platinum pieces because you can easily calculate the carats of diamonds and assess the 4Cs and workmanship – and they go well with most outfits today too.” – Brenda Kang, Founder of Revival Vintage Jewels Objects 

Look for a signature

“Signed pieces – where the name of the jewellery house or maker is engraved on the underside of the piece or on the inside of the ring – are generally more valuable than unsigned ones. Cartier, Fabergé, Harry Winston, JAR, Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels, to name a few – any of these names on a jewel will transform its value. Jewellery designed and produced by these makers represents a very high standard, although much depends on the piece too. A signature on a 1920s Cartier Tutti Frutti piece – among the most sought-after of the house’s creations – for instance, can potentially transform the value to millions of dollars. Signed pieces by mid-century designers such as Suzanne Belperron and Jean Schlumberger have also received great attention in our recent sales. Jewels, both signed and unsigned, from the 1960s and ’70s have been in demand too.” – Daphne Lingon, Christie’s Head of Jewellery for the Americas

Consider jumping on the ’60s to ’80s bandwagon

“Jewellery from this period seems to be gaining popularity, especially chunky yellow gold jewellery and watches with stone dials. These used to be slow moving, but have been popular in the past year or so. I’ve always loved retro jewels – yellow gold pieces are so perfect for daytime. They make a real statement while still being office appropriate.” – Brenda Kang, Founder of Revival Vintage Jewels & Objects 

Be cautious when buying online 

“Do your research, and visit online sites that are trusted and curated by vintage experts. Look for easy entry points on each site. For instance, at Vestiaire Collective, we have a We Love selection curated by our experts that showcases the most desirable items available. Read all descriptions very carefully: When you’re shopping online, you don’t have the luxury of physically touching and feeling each piece, so it’s crucial that all details are listed up front. Don’t be afraid to ask for more information from the seller if you need it. Some things you need to look out for: Are the pieces tarnished? Are all the gems secure? Are all the clasps functioning?” – Fanny Moizant, President and Co-founder of Vestiaire Collective 

Go with your heart

“First and foremost, collect what you love. Having a theme or collecting a series from a period is great, but I’m also a big advocate of buying pieces that you will wear, create your own memories with and can pass down to the next generation, rather than just something that would sit in a safe or a drawer.” – Brenda Kang, Founder of Revival Vintage Jewels & Objects

“I don’t see a need for a goal or special theme when building your personal collection. It’s good enough to follow your heart, because one may need a pair of delicate Edwardian pearl earrings for a party and then a strong geometric Art Deco brooch for work.” – Terry Chu, Phillips’ Head of Jewellery for Asia

Note the condition of the piece 

“Always ask if there have been any alterations or additions, and if there are, whether they have been done sympathetically (only restoring and repairing the piece, without changing too much of the original).” – Jean Ghika, Global Director of Jewellery at Bonhams

“When you are looking for a beautiful piece of jewellery, do pay attention to the workmanship and finish quality. Look at the underside of the piece as well as the front to examine how well it is made; if a piece of jewellery is finely crafted, as much attention would have been paid to the back as to the front. Also, examine how smooth the finish is and if the settings are secure, straight and regular. This applies to all jewellery, whether vintage or new.” – Goh Ying Li, Creative Director at La Putri 

Tap the power of provenance 

“The value of jewellery is determined by a combination of factors, including design and brand, period, craftsmanship, the quality of the gemstones and authenticity. On top of these, provenance can have a significant impact on the value of a piece of jewellery. Well-documented records indicating where the jewellery comes from and who wore the piece are not only proof of its authenticity, but can also make it more desirable. Jewellery with good provenance often comes with a story that makes it more interesting and attractive too – the Hutton- Mdivani jadeite necklace previously owned by Barbara Hutton and subsequently acquired by the Cartier Collection is a great example. The necklace was sold for US$27.44 million in April 2014, achieving a world auction record for any jadeite jewellery.” – Yvonne Chu, Acting Head of Department, Jewellery, at Sotheby’s Asia

How to start a vintage jewellery collection by Annabel Tan first appeared on PrestigeOnline Singapore