Cartier, whose name is a byword for curiosity and open-mindedness, finds beauty in everything.
After experimenting with timepiece forms in the past, Cartier Libre has expanded its study to embrace jewellery and all the maison’s artistic mediums. The brand consistently challenges traditions and pushes the envelope of creativity with a new collection each year.
This year it is the Tressage Collection.
The Tressage collection combines three different aesthetics, reinterpreting volume, contrast, and the work of gold. A priceless cape that has been spotted on Zoe Saldana at the Vanity Fair Oscar’s Party, which was created as a result of a partnership between the Cartier Design Studio and a Parisian fashion stylist, is among these.
These are the maison’s distinctive design elements that resulted from Jeanne Toussaint’s influence as the brand’s first female creative director since 1933.
With a moniker like “La Panthère,” this strong woman’s vision and taste gave the maison its distinctive look. Her presence amplifies the volumes, which are unabashedly affirming and an invitation to enjoy beauty rather than being timid or guarded.
The undulating structures of beads roll across the skin and quiver at the touch. Cocktail rings embellish the hands with priceless and elegant patterns. Regardless of how it is polished, gadrooned, or braided, gold is plentiful and generous. Jeanne Toussaint began to expand on the element and connected it to fresh colour schemes like coral and turquoise. The maison’s identity has become increasingly reliant on this creative flexibility as time goes on. This collection bears the weight of this strong imprint.
The Tressage collection is composed of three: Gold Bead Chains and Precious Rollers, Materials in Tension, and Twisted Coral Braided Diamonds and Gold. Gold Bead Chains and Precious Rollers include a ring and a bracelet made of dazzling, voluminous gold. Beautiful, clinking masterpieces with a material that begs to be touched and played with on the skin as it is comprised of countless gold beads.
The gold sphere is a defining form of the maison since Jeanne Toussaint’s period and more recently with the Paris Nouvelle Vague Collection. The several strands of moving gold beads in various sizes, which give the appearance of a continuous chain that would wrap around itself to produce expansive jewellery, are to thank for this illusion.
In order to create the appearance of supple, moving forms that priceless bonds appear unable to restrain, Cartier pushes the limits of appearance and changes hard materials like stone and gold in its Materials in Tension line. This jewellery makeover is based on the gadroon, the manipulation of volume and stones, and the artistic lexicon of the maison. It creates three worlds, each made up of a bracelet and a cocktail ring.
This tension-filled density of yellow gold, metaquartzite, and obsidian is striped with platinum strips adorned with inverted diamonds. a technological choice that strengthens the impression of a connection that twists on itself in an over and under effect.
Gold diamonds and coral is a colour palette that is true to Jeanne Toussaint’s chromatic heritage. To create a ring and a bracelet under the Twisted Coral Braided Diamonds and Gold line, Cartier transforms it into an illusionary game. As the band that wraps around the finger or wrist is a powerful trompe l’oeil, the design was created by the painstaking assembling of a series of metal components. The lapidary meticulously sliced the coral into cabochons, a process that may be undone at any time due to the coral’s brittleness.
The double strap setting of paved diamonds on the sides of the strands and the traditional pearl grain setting between the diamonds were both chosen by the jewellers at the Ateliers Cartier. Additionally, the grain setting with tracery, often known as the “swallowtail,” was used to give the stones at the end the appearance of loosened restraint.
Discover more of Cartier Libre’s Tressage collection on cartier.com.