Having been appointed to the role of artistic director for haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections for women in the house of Fendi last year, Kim Jones’s big foray into a new domain was seen as a move that will bring a fresh perspective to womenswear.
For his debut collection, Jones went back to the 1940s when the Roman fashion house was ruled by the second generation of Fendi sisters – Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda. “The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” notes Jones. “A powerful dynasty.”
And into the wardrobes of the sisters he dove in, ferociously pulling tearsheets from bell sleeves of a washed mink and bonded suede coat to pinstripes of their office outfits. Also heavily referenced, Silva Venturini Fendi’s daily uniform – the utilitarian shirt jacket.
“I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” Jones explains. “There’s a usefulness to the collection, explored in a chic, timeless way.” Speaking of Fendi, one cannot give the legendary Karl Lagerfeld the go-by. His legacy continues, as evidenced by the Karligraphy monogram or Fendi’s first shoe that are modified to fit modern times.
The most outstanding feature of Fendi RTW autumn/winter 2021 is the neutral palette that dominates the entire collection. It’s a very sensual nifty shades of brown, where double cashmere, camel outerwear, mink tricot, wool-fringed scarves and other lush fabrics drape the body in cool silhouettes.
“Fun isn’t always just about bright colours,” says the the winner of British Fashion Award for Best Menswear Designer 2006/2009. “It can be about really luxurious self-indulgence, which pleases the person wearing it more than anyone else.”
The craftsmanship deserves a celebration on its own, from the embossed Selleria stitching on gabardine trenches, double cashmere coats and leather coats to floaty mink herringbone jacket. The silhouette of the RTW swings from solid structure to feminine fluidity, proving Jones’ versatility when it comes to making magic in fashion.
The bags seem to have evolved into a new, fresher avatar and we can’t stop gushing over them. Elegance is the key here. Also noteworthy, a playful Fendi tribute through the debut of Fendi First. Discernible through the tilted Fendi monogram on the clutch frame, Fendi First is presented in roomy variations as well as a micro pouch. Fendi classics receive a fresh makeover and one particular effort is by enlisting craftsmen from all over Italy to reimagine the iconic Baguette.
Finishing off the looks are Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s new jewellery range – Fendi O’Lock, a graphic take on the brand’s logo which comes with padlock that can only be opened by dialling F-E-N-D-I. Once again, the Karligraphy and Selleria details makes its appearance and we are so in love.
What can we say about Kim Jones? He has proven once again he is Jack of all trades, and a master of all.