Set at the Fendi show space in Milan, the Women’s and Men’s Spring/Summer 2021 Collections designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi marked the reawakening of Milan Fashion Week.
An intimate gathering brought to life the traditional and domestic sources of inspiration fuelling the collection, centred on reflections of the past and time spent with family.
As fresh white curtains billowed in the breeze, a series of digitally projected windows across walls and floors revealed sights of the outside world, from thriving flora and fleeting birds to the mesmerising cycle of the setting sun. The airy scenography, taken during lockdown by Silvia from her bedroom window offered a meaningful backdrop for collections that capture life in the new normal. It is a life that seeks comfort and meaning, that looks to the past with appreciation and fond recollection. Each window projected a unique story across models venturing through the set, creating transient moments of shadow and light that punctuate the workmanship of each garment.
The purity of linen is essential to the season, paired with cotton, feathers, fur and eiderdown quilting. The accents and details evoke imagery of embroidered bedding and tableware – maternal treasures handed down from mother to child. Looks for men and women played with subtle, sandy hues of wheat, milk, and honey with striking infusions of sky blue, cardinal red and black. The shadow cast by a window became a leitmotif, printed on garments in a game of transparency and texture.
The women’s and men’s collections are an exploration of Fendi traditions stripped bare. Boutis satin quilting, jour d’echelle ladder- work embroidery and ajouré flowers that tease glimpses of skin in a play of layers, toying with light and shade. Heavy formal structures take softened shaped – coat backs and shirt sleeves unbutton, tailored details stamped onto trompe l’oeil knitwear. Embroidered house coats and flared tunics elevate the comfort of life at home.
Faded floral print linens, latticework furs and the intricacies adorning apron dresses in silk duchesse, embroidered tulle and sheer gazar define a moment of lightness and depth. Each piece in the collection tells a story of Italian craftsmanship, and the complex emotions of our collective global experience. It is a showcase of Fendi savoir-faire at work under bizarre circumstances.
The accessories collection offers tender renewals of old favourites, playing with construction and embellishment to conceal and reveal. Baguette and Peekaboo bags are dressed in floral fur, cotton ajouré or quilted FF logo leather, swathed in embroidered silk veils. Woven textures are plentiful, between market baskets in recycled PVC, stretch lattice frame totes, picnic baskets and canvas luggage. These unique cases serve as pragmatic and light- hearted solutions for daily life.
The “Hand in Hand” Baguette project honours a unique collaboration with local artisans across Italy, including the Abruzzo and Marche regions, famous for their mastery
of intricate and traditional techniques. Handcrafted in Abruzzo, a sheer Baguette constructed in tombolo aguilano sugar-coated lace celebrates a technique refined by Benedictine nuns since the 15th century. From Marche, a structured Baguette woven in strands of natural willow takes inspiration from the baskets of local fishermen.
Other accessories in the collection feature unique construction and playful embellishments. The line includes market baskets, lattice totes, picnic baskets and canvas luggage for everyday use. Laser-cut and ajouré apron belts dipped in pastel hues compose the second iteration of the Fendi x Chaos “tech jewellery” capsule collection.
Through the women’s collection, woven boots give a strong showing beside elastic pumps and rattan pool slides. The footwear evokes a tone of spring elegance, while the men sport reinvented sling-back boat shoes and T-bar plimsolls.
Perpetuating the personal narrative of the Fendi Family, the show casting tapped a selection of related models. Mothers, fathers, sisters and sons that walked the runway included Edie and Olympia Campbell, Cecilia and Lucas Chancellor as well as Philippe and Dries Haseldonckx. For Silvia, the collection was about family values and the values behind fashion – clothes that are about the moment, but which are also a part of your life. The collection looks to a future in which garments function as treasured heirlooms, ever more resonant with memories and meaning.
(All images: Fendi/Daniele La Malfa)
This story is published in Prestige Malaysia’s March 2021 issue. To read the latest issue, pick up a copy from the nearest newsstand or subscribe on Magzter.
