This year, Brunello Cucinelli braves an honest, practical and conservative approach to the Women’s Fall/Winter Collection 2020, conceiving a captivating new normal of comfort and simplicity.
The Italian fashion house acknowledges the emerging global trend to limit the superfluous in favour of adopting a values-based mindset that guides towards longer-lasting and more versatile concepts, projects and items that transcend seasonal limitations. This new ideal is rooted in the origins of the word “elegance”, which derives from the Latin term eligere, meaning to choose, select and enhance the most appropriate quality.
Accordingly, the new collection is clear in voicing a desire to avoid waste and to live in harmony with the living world, expressed through soft and contemporary minimalism. Moreover, the collection leans towards traditional shapes and colours, delivering balance and stability through tidy, sophisticated looks.
Clean-cut and essential silhouettes, oversized and loose-fit volumes, menswear classics reimagined with a feminine and sensual edge and handcrafted methodologies emboldened by inspirations from nature inform the overall aesthetic. The collection’s clean and spartan character melds with a welcoming sense of warmth and natural luxury.
In terms of colours, the collection combines classic whites, light and medium tones of beige with a delicate array of dreamy colours like lilac, sky blue, aqua and pink. Hints of leather, chocolate brown and rustic hues of horse tack and saddles speak for an earthy touch of strength. Strokes of black alternate with shades of light grey and subtle metallic touches of bronze, gold and silver only to be met with thoughtful insertions of traditional motifs in various forms in an otherwise solid colour scheme.
Traditional fabrics mix with leather, offering a natural variance in surfaces and shades that add a unique appeal to the collection. The clean lines are balanced by comforting cashmere and crochet patterns, granité, tricotine, cavalry twill, gabardine, alpaca and plain-weave wool. Thanks to modern technology and thin yarns, these structured textiles express as lightweight and fluid outlines, marrying tactile surfaces with contour effects.
Patterns range between miniature check, houndstooth, pinstripe and regimental designs which express British heritage. These motifs take new life with jacquard embroidery, sequins, printed silk, or loop stitching. Leather is a primary accent, adding charisma to items like shirts, dresses, outerwear, jackets, cloaks, coats and down jackets.
A closer deconstruction of the collection is warranted to understand the graceful androgyny embodied through the range of knitwear, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and accessories. Voluminous maxi coats and down jackets with exaggerated lengths set the tone in terms of proportions. Blazers come in numerous styles from belted with broad shoulders, equestrian-inspired fits with pleats and oversized cuts geared to be worn over gauzy dresses and with chevalier boots.
The shirt becomes central to complement any outfit, with versions made from leather or padded alpaca used as jackets over sweaters or turtleneck sweaters. Shirts made from shearling, double wool or cashmere are styled to replace the coat with down-filled incarnations serving as appropriate alternatives to outerwear. The overshirt, as it were, has become mainstream in the fashion lexicon as an essential that gives a youthful edge to any look. British tradition returns with knitwear as cable knits, English rib, flat rib stitches and Northern European motifs feature, succeeding to amplify the dextrous handcrafted techniques invested in the collection’s conception.
For trousers and skirts, sartorial loose fit trousers go beyond the restrictions of formal attire and feature luxurious fabrics nodding to vintage fashion. Slightly curved silhouettes pair with long turn-ups, while the waist cinches with bustier-like or fabric belts. Lengthy or inverted pleats emphasise the interplay of volumes. Despite taking inspiration from menswear, these articles take on new life with glamorous details and feminine accessories.
Given the collection’s overall theme of refined minimalism, accessories lend a touch of drama and originality to any outfit while adhering to a timeless and essential stylistic expression. Natural leathers with polished finishes contrast with prints that mimic organic surfaces. The bag collection takes its cue from vintage inspiration sources with crinkled, organic forms while exceptions lean to clean, geometric shapes. Iconic Chelsea boots are also reinterpreted with a contemporary twist, while high heels boast ladylike charm with attractive shiny details.
The values of authenticity and durability are keenly delivered by Brunello Cucinelli for this immutably stylish Women’s Fall-Winter 2020 Collection, with pieces that may be effortlessly renewed through accessories and matched with past and future treasures for the delivery of elegant ensembles. The merger of feminine grace and ageless class birth a new soft power dressing code, in perfect harmony between personal and professional life for the woman of today.
This story first appeared in Prestige Malaysia’s November 2020 issue.