The spring/summer 2021 menswear collections turn to tried-and-true classics, but not without reinvention or innovation.
Fresh looks, light hues and pure lines accompany clean, streamlined silhouettes. There’s been a turn to outerwear and utility detailing as we move towards nature, practicality and the outdoors, while bold accessorising becomes a way of making a statement, even with simpler outfits. There are plenty of colourful checks and stripes this season. And there’s added humility for the simple sartorial pleasure, with summer shorts and sporty key pieces getting plenty of high-fashion do-overs.
White best epitomises the Age of the Great Reset brought on by Covid-19. The likes of Fendi, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy employ all-white hues and purist lines for a clean, crisp aesthetic. Start the season on a clean slate, but if white is too stark, refresh your wardrobe palette with easy, light hues such as cream, ivory, ecru or eggshell. A pop of accompanying colour doesn’t hurt either: just see Dior Homme or Louis Vuitton.
The casual bucket hat is the headgear of the spring/summer seasons. Bold prints, patterns and hues make a bold statement, à la Dolce & Gabbana, Celine and Versace. Other brimmed hats at Gucci, Burberry, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy show off some striking shapes and styles that are hard to ignore. Aside from keeping the rays at bay, this season’s hats are a fashion proclamation and often come with matching outfits.
The utility trend is major for spring/summer 2021, with outdoor wear, big pockets, zippers and workwear details providing plenty of bold inspiration at Fendi, Dior Homme, Louis Vuitton and Moncler. That’s not surprising at a time when functionality and fashion seem to be moving closer in high fashion, as we’re finding a renewed appreciation of nature, being physical and the great outdoors. These looks are stealing the limelight as designers explore the theme with a modern industrial upgrade through refined materials and sleek lines — see Hermès, Ermenegildo Zegna and Fendi.
Designers are rediscovering and elevating the humble polo shirt with different materials, whimsical detailing, and fresh colours and fabrics. From airy crotchet knit and oversized at Valentino, to chunky and pink knitted at Bottega Veneta, sheer at Prada, knitted long-sleeved concoctions at Hermès and playful at Gucci, the options abound. Giorgio Armani and Hermès gave us long-sleeved versions, more sophisticated and refined. Re-interpretations such as these give us new ways, both smart and casual, of wearing this classic style.
From stylish holiday Bermudas to short sporty numbers and
loosely tailored ones that hit just above or below the knee, spring/summer’s range of men’s shorts is wide and dynamic. Chic versions (such as Dior Homme’s, Ermenegildo Zegna’s and Saint Laurent’s) work well in the heat with a well-tailored suit jacket or a shirt with rolled-up sleeves. Other options are more directional, such as the matching short suit at Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana’s colourful geometric beach print or street and arty at Burberry. Dare to bare.
Pastels for spring are hardly new, but this season’s mixes are conveying a new sense of innocence. Pale pastel hues are gentle and serene, and particularly inviting on more formal outfits with a relaxed fit. We love the summer suiting and trenches at Ermenegildo Zegna, whereas Giorgio Armani and Paul Smith’s ice-cream suit shades are on point and on trend. Mints, lilacs, pale yellows, light blues, peaches and pinks are all soothing to the eye — see the Ferragamo runway — while shades of peachy tan work wonders at Loro Piana.
Statement stripes and checks
Although there were some romantic prints, these linear lines, checks and plaids are reworkings of classic masculine patterns. The likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Zegna do wide summery stripes, while at Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Gucci and Loewe its colourful checks that provide a brighter, bolder wardrobe.
(Hero Image: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX)
This story first appeared on Prestige Online Hong Kong.