With the introduction of the first chronographs in the collection in 1999, Vacheron Constantin elevated Overseas watches as beyond a mere status symbol geared toward escapism but also established its truly sportive nature. The design of these chronographs evolved in 2004 to become part of an ongoing exploration of elegance and robust sophistication.
Finally, in 2016, the Manufacture expanded the horizons of these iconic watches with a collection that featured a revisited look while maintaining its original extremely sporty-chic spirit. With its characteristic six-sided bezel, self-winding in-house movement, and unmistakable visual signature, the Overseas chronograph has thus left an indelible imprint on the history of the Maison.
Vacheron Constantin has demonstrated a remarkable ability to tap into contemporary trends and interpret them with the Maison’s characteristic flair and high watchmaking spirit, thanks to Christian Selmoni’s role as custodian of the brand’s heritage and style. The latest iteration of the brand’s Overseas Chronograph ref. 5500V is the epitome of a sporty chronograph, with an eye-catching and remarkably legible 1960s-style panda dial.
Since 2016, the Overseas Chronograph has been available in a variety of case materials and dial colors, including a 2018 reverse panda dial with a black background and white sub-dials. The new Overseas Chronograph is more than just a different dial color; its release coincides with the discontinuation of the brown and silver dial models, reducing the collection to three stainless steel references: blue dial in a pink gold case, reverse panda, and this panda edition.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Price & Specs
Case 42.5mm stainless steel with 150 metres water resistance
Movement Automatic Calibre 5200 with 52 hours power reserve
Over the Moon with Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde Moon Phase
The Overseas moon phase retrograde date is a first for the collection. Incorporating a retrograde display, an iconic part of Vacheron Constantin’s living heritage, the new model reinvents a signature classic complication while retaining the collection’s iconic features, including a six-sided bezel evoking the Maltese cross, a fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes and translucent lacquered dial now enhanced with a precision moon-phase.
Combining performance and style successfully, it took several months of aesthetic research to combine a precise moon phase and a retrograde date in a sporty-elegant case while ensuring extreme legibility and perfect balance. The first challenge was to incorporate a retrograde date – a recognisable complication for the Maison – into a sports-inspired watch. The task of determining how to display moon phases without losing the sporty feel of the timepiece came next; what results is a new Overseas retrograde moon phase date within the collection thus offers a rare combination in which a classical complication is adapted in the service of style and vice versa, serving as a reminder of the Maison’s prowess in both horological technique and the aesthetic fields, proving that even icons can be reinvented.
The new Overseas moon phase retrograde date model contains everything that contributes to the collection’s visual signature and horological qualities. The in-house Calibre 2460 R31L/2 with a 40-hour power reserve beats at the heart of a 41 mm steel case. The moon phases are displayed through a 6 o’clock aperture graduated from 0 to 2912, allowing you to count the number of days since the last new moon and requiring only a one-day correction every 122 years. The upper part of the dial is occupied by the retrograde date indication by the central hand.
As a testament to watchmaking genius, all adjustments are user-friendly and easily made via the crown: winding, date and moon phase correction, and time setting.
Overseas retrograde moon phase
Case 41 mm stainless steel with 50 metres water resistance
Movement Automatic Calibre 2460 R31L/2 with 40 hours power reserve
Minimalist design, maximum elegance – Meet the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date
The first wristwatch to feature a retrograde date was the Don Pancho, nicknamed by collectors after the person for whom it was commissioned. In 1935, the Maison received an order from Brooking, its official retailer in Madrid, for a wristwatch with functions that were previously reserved for pocket watches featuring complications: a minute repeater and calendar indications, with a retrograde hand.
This new limited annual production Patrimony retrograde day-date watch in 950 platinum with a salmon-colored dial is heir to the Maison’s grand stylistic and technical traditions, revealing meticulous attention to detail in which the expression of minimalism is combined with horological excellence. Raising technical watchmaking to the level of art and in keeping with one of the Bauhaus principles of “less is more,” salmon-colored dials have been featured in Vacheron Constantin watches since the 1940s, though usually in steel and with a greater degree of complications such as the classic chronograph Reference 47101 and the 1992 self-winding perpetual calendar chronograph Reference 49005.The platinum case and “salmon dial” became popular again in the 1990s, in short, the new Patrimony retrograde day-date draws aesthetic and technical inspiration from tradition while revisiting it.
Patrimony retrograde day-date Price & Specs
Case 42.5 mm 950 platinum with 30 metres water resistance
Movement Automatic Calibre 2460 R31R7/3 with 40 hours power reserve
This story first appeared on Augustman Singapore.