This is the next generation of eye creams

When it comes to skincare, few things are as divisive as eye cream. These juxtaposing opinions are shared by dermatologists the world over who flit on both ends of the spectrum. 

Now, a new theory has come into play: The intersection between shape and light. While this might sound like more unnecessary mumbo-jumbo, it’s a grounding concept from one of the world’s most trusted and luxurious skincare names, La Prairie.

A year ago, the Swiss brand introduced the Equation of Light, a philosophy that pinpoints colour and reflection as the leading cause for skin luminosity, also known as the healthy, radiant glow we all dream of achieving. A third factor missing pertains to the eye area.

As we all know, the thinner skin around the eyes is particularly sensitive and delicate. The right formula is, naturally, the key to prevent specific skin issues. Puffy undereyes? A cool-tip applicator or rollball may relieve them. Dark circles? A formula with caffeine works like a cup of Joe for the eyes and making you look more awake by constricting the blood vessels under the skin. But an emollient-rich eye cream may lead to the growth of millia seeds.

But, and stay with us for this, shape too plays a part. Or at least that’s what scientists at La Prairie tell us. Dr Daniel Stangl, La Prairie’s Director of Innovation, broke it all down for us ahead of the launch. Stangl joined the brand in 1993, armed with prior positions in structural biology and in neuroendocrinology, and was fascinated by skin, and “how the skin protects human beings, like the atmosphere protecting life on our planet”. 

Stangl tells us that the eye has a three-dimensional architecture, that follows the arch of the brow, the curve of the lid, and the lash line. This determines how light interacts with it. Its latest launch, the White Caviar Eye Extraordinaire, was created to address the holy trinity of colour, reflection and shape to pursue an extraordinary luminosity. 

Here’s where it gets complicated.

“This potent formula acts on the five chromatic disturbances (that’s discolourations for us plebs) of the eye contour area (grey, brown, yellow, red and violet),” Stangl says. He continues by explaining that the formula works to “improve reflection by smoothing the skin surface and densifying the dermal extracellular matrix and optimises shape by attenuating puffiness, under-eye bags as well as crow’s feet and wrinkles”. 

Priced at $860, the price tag is eye-watering, to say the least. But in true La Prairie spirit, the White Caviar Eye Extraordinaire is a superior, high-performing formulation. “It contains the single most powerful illuminating molecule: Lumidose. Lumidose outperforms existing well-known illuminating ingredients, achieving never- before-seen results,” reassures Stangl. 

With skincare brands from different markets, countries, and pricetags constantly vying for our attention, La Prairie fuses its cellular science ethos with today’s pressing skincare trends. Stangl highlights findings by an IPSOS Study: “Fifty two percent of consumers worldwide are concerned about facial skin issues such as texture or uneven skin tone, while 41 percent desire to illuminate their skin tone.” The desire for skin luminosity was a trend derived from Asia, but has since spread to other parts of the world. 

He is quick to debunk the myth of “glass skin” often seen on social media. “Glass skin means skin that looks clear, poreless, translucent, and luminous — like a piece of glass that has an ultra smooth and glossy finish. This often is ‘just’ the result of an excessive layering ritual.” 

The true hallmark of luminosity is a “flawless, even tone and glow from within” — something he believes that the White Caviar Eye Extraordinaire and White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire (for the face) can deliver, thanks to Lumidose and Golden Caviar Extract. 

All images are courtesy of La Prairie.