Launched in 2015, the Dior Rose des Vents collection, designed by Dior Joaillerie’s creative director Victoire de Castellane, embraces the history of the house and its founder Christian Dior’s favourite flower — no surprise here — the rose, as well as his lucky star.
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Monsieur Christian Dior’s childhood home Les Rhumbs, a 19th-century villa-turned-museum in Granville, Normandy, was built by a shipowner, who named it after the maritime navigation term, rhumb, referring to the 32 divisions of a compass rose (“rose des vents” in French). The house was acquired by the namesake founder’s parents in 1906 and was surrounded by a garden, which sparked the fashion maestro’s passion for flowers, especially roses.
Years later, in Paris, when the superstitious couturier found a strange-looking metal star on the ground on the day of his first meeting with French businessman Marcel Boussac (the man who financed the launch of the Maison), Dior took it as a sign to open his own couture house at 30 Avenue Montaigne. And so he went on, travelling the world with that same lucky star always in his pocket, presenting his new collections that featured many roses.
Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle wrote in Prestige‘s August 2018 issue that Victoire de Castellane was inspired by these stories. The French designer said, “I wanted to start from the idea of a little motif pendant. And what is more metaphorical than a medallion? In this symbol of travel, you find echoes of Christian Dior’s star and the idea of the good luck charm, as well as the rose, his favourite flower. The whole history of the house is there, implicitly.”
Designed to be worn for daily use and as precious talismans, the first collections showcased delicate bracelets and necklaces decked out in gems like diamond, mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, turquoise, and pink opal. The line is recognisable thanks to a star motif reinterpreted in the shape of a compass rose with eight points. Paying tribute to the ocean and to ship rigging, a twist of gold rice grains surrounds a medallion with a double-sided compass rose or hardstone face, which turns on a skinny chain depending on the wearer’s movements.
The following years saw the addition of rings, earrings and even watches. This year, the line adopts ceramic lacquer in vibrant red, pink, orange and green for the first time. These are offered on bracelets designed for stacking and mixing together to bear luck everywhere one goes.
Here are five novelties of the 2018 Dior Rose des Vents collection — all showcasing the signature compass rose motif.
750/1000 yellow, white and pink gold, diamonds, onyx, malachite, mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, pink opal, turquoise, tiger eye and cornelian.
18K yellow gold, diamonds and malachite
750/1000 pink gold, diamond and red ceramic lacquer
18K yellow gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl
18K yellow gold, diamond and opal doublet with onyx