Among the opening looks in Giorgio Armani’s menswear show is a series in brown, a colour that was reportedly inspired by an old photograph of Italian artistocrat-director, Luchino Visconti.
The waistcoat is his link in harmonising the worlds of formal dressing and sporty attire.
This season, Armani also included a nautical- themed capsule collection entitled Màin, named after his mother’s childhood nickname, and his personal yacht. Practical jackets in linen and viscose canvas embellished with satin-finish gold logo buttons and moss-stitched pinstriping crafted by hand, paired with relaxed trousers and bermuda shorts, convey easy elegance.
Over at the Giorgio Armani show for womenswear, the collection opens with suits in a new silhouette that follows the natural curves of the body with rounded shoulders and accentuated waistline. This one introduces the colour palette as referenced by the collection’s title, Earth
Pieces are translucent and light, even when in multiple layers. Note the ethereal mirage created when the floral prints overlap
The 1995 La Prima bag that was re-launched in November with a new-gen iteration is spotted on the runway with an edgy version that comes with a chain-strap.
Shoes sport the peekaboo effect too, with opaque mesh on smart Oxfords or decorative touches adorning plastic on feminine options.
For his Emporio Armani collection for women, the designer wanted to evoke a light and airy feel. He tapped on a myriad of shimmery embellishments, such as light-reflective, transparent sequins positioned in tiers from small to big, to create an effect reminiscent of moonlight.
The collection’s jackets are crafted from an assortment of materials ranging from silk, organza, leather to suede. The ones here are in velvet resembling crushed paper.
The light and airy feel Armani wants for the season is carried through to the accessories, with shoes flaunting sheer panels and a touch of opulent dazzle. Mini bejewelled acrylic bags are carried like precious jewels.
Likewise for Emporio Armani menswear, an air of weightlessness and ethereality permeates the collection. This jacket looks light and a closer look reveals that it is actually made of printed silk.
The lightness of the collection is underscored by an energy, illuminated with shiny metallic surfaces.
Formal & functional
There is a dialogue between the formal and the functional with design cues from the world of sports. Armani installed drawstrings in shirts, and teams suits with the casual buckle belt worn over the jacket