Boys will be boys… or will they? That seems to be the big question on designers’ minds as they redefine ideals of masculinity for the new season, which would possibly influence the new decade. Going beyond dressing default archetypes of success and power such as The Banker, The Lawyer, The Businessman or The Doctor, they cast a subversive eye on irrelevant models of patriarchy.
Over the past few seasons, the runways have shown a toughness tinged with tenderness. In Spring/Summer 2020, that gentle spirit blossoms into an alluring aura that exudes elegance, sensuality and romance in menswear.
Here, fashion editor Jacquie Ang decodes the new order in five trends.
Relaxed silhouette
A sense of effortless ease pervades Spring/Summer 2020 in the line-up of relaxed silhouettes. Designers have built an extensive wardrobe composed of soft suits, oversized Oxford shirts, boxy bowling shirts, floaty silk shirts, one- piece jumpsuits, tunics, harem pants… the key pieces to wear now.
Soft palette
Along with the season’s genteel mood, Autumn/Winter 2019’s brilliant brights are now toned down, but the muted hues still make a statement. The powdery palette colours casual daywear to spiffy suits, casting a calm yet romantic effect on the runways.
Shorts
The spin-off from Spring/Summer 2020’s sense of liberation is a sexy mood. Sheer is still strong, topless is trending — men on runways and off are ditching the shirts under their suits — but above-the-knee shorts make it an easy-breezy trick to join the cool boys, with plenty of styling cues from the runways.
Satin
Designers have taken a shine to satin, heightening the season’s feel-good vibes. Bank on the sensuous fabric for a fresh gloss and sleek sophistication that takes you from work to weekend.
Tie-dye
Spring/Summer 2020’s free spirit informs this Insta-ready print that’s already big on the streets. It doesn’t have to be loud ’70s psychedelia with the host of new dreamy interpretations on the runways, so to ease you into the trend, try wearing a kaleidoscopic shirt under your suit.
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Jacquie Ang
Jacquie Ang is the fashion editor. She subscribes to Martin Margiela’s desire for anonymity — her place stays behind the camera. When she’s not dreaming up ideas for shoots, geeking out over the details behind runway collections, or deciphering real life’s influences on fashion, she plays toy photographer on Instagram.
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