Is the flag still flying high for streetwear? If the recent Spring/Summer 2019 menswear shows are any indication, its reign may soon wane. Perhaps Raf Simons said it best backstage at his show. Tired of “too many hoodies out there”, he lamented that “something needs to shift,” and something certainly did — this season, we saw a couture comeback, and a resurgence of traditional tailoring. See for yourselves with our favourite collections from the showcase.
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1. Dior Homme
Artistic Director Kim Jones’ debut collection for Dior Homme did not disappoint. Jones looked to the storied women’s archives of House of Dior for inspiration — an apt move in today’s shifting codes of masculinity. “I’d call [the collection] romantic, rather than feminine,” he said, putting the house’s iconic couture craftsmanship front and centre. The collection featured heavy embellishments, feather embroidery, tulle and organza and toile de Jouy motifson masculine silhouettes — albeit tailored with gentler, rounded shoulders — of double breasted suits, trench coats and shirts. Models wore sneakers as a nod to the streetwear aesthetic.
SEE ALSO: Watch Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2019 show
See highlights from the Alexander McQueen SS19 menswear show last night. Watch the full film: http://bit.ly/MCQUEENMENSS19SHOW
Posted by Alexander McQueen on Saturday, 23 June 2018
2. Alexander McQueen
This season Alexander McQueen presented a collection celebrating mid-20th century British artists. In an homage to photographer John Deakin, models wore jacquard suits embroidered with his sketches and scribbles. The tribute to Irish-British painter Francis Bacon saw paint explosions on biker jackets and knits. As Creative Director Sarah Burton said, “tailoring form[ed] the backbone” of the collection, giving those weary of the streetwear tsunami a welcome respite. While the silhouettes were precise, classic menswear was deconstructed; fabrics were combined to form hybrid jackets, trench coats were chopped and shirt cuffs were slashed.
While its Spring/Summer 2019 collection lacked the outrageous looks or moments of younger fashion houses, Hermès reminded us of its reputation as a bastion of extraordinary French tailoring and fabrication. Models sported classic silhouettes of cuffed cotton trousers and lightweight linen jackets in muted shades of white and beige, windbreakers and parkas in Étrivière lambskin and in summer colours of pop orange and midnight blue.
Over in Milan, Prada channelled the 1960s. Showgoers sat on transparent cube-shaped stools, made iconic by designer Verner Panton, while models in psychedelic bright florals and turtlenecks in candy colours walked the runway. Miuccia Prada rejected the sportswear casual aesthetic, choosing instead to portray the collection in an “elegant… young, new way”. Simple separates ripe for colour blocking, mixing and matching made up the collection, with tailored trousers and jeans, boxy jackets, polo shirts and sweaters.
5. Raf Simons
Leading the forefront of the return to tailoring is Raf Simons. Fusing his love for rebellious youth cultures and traditional menswear, the collection presented oversized, long Duchesse satin coats in jewel tones, slashed louche wool overcoats and pin-striped power suits. As expected from the designer, punk was centerstage with string mesh vests resembling plastic beer holders, destroyed T-shirts with cut-and-paste punk imagery and pins and stud accents.