Bell & Ross pushes the aesthetic and technical limits of the BR 05 to new heights with the superlative BR-X5.
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Designed with the modern cosmopolite in mind, the advent of BR 05 has led to the birth of a whole new “Urban” world in the Bell & Ross universe.
Beginning with a simple, automatic model with a date feature in 2019, the elegant-meets-sporty collection has since grown to encompass a chronograph, a skeleton dial and a GMT series, while perpetuating the aeronautical heritage of Bell & Ross and the visual signature of the “round within the square.”
“The BR‑X5 originates from the BR 05, which originates from the BR 01, which originates from the cockpit”, explains the company.
In the latest development, the BR 05 reaches a high note in the form of the BR-X5. With the letter “X” symbolising experimentation and the future, the BR-X5 represents a quantum leap both in terms of design and technical innovation.
The avant-garde timepiece is powered by a manufacture movement, BR CAL 323, designed by Swiss watchmaking specialist Kenissi, featuring a personalised oscillating weight and a variable-inertia balance wheel beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
This so-called “weekend proof” capacity allows you to put your watch down on Friday evening and pick it up on Monday morning without having to wind it up.
“While daring was the guiding principle throughout the creative stages, the notion of risk was banished from our vocabulary when it came to reliability and precision”, explains co-founder and creative director Bruno Belamich.
He assures, “With the BR‑X5, we wanted to push back the technical and aesthetic limits.”
Another advantage of this manufacture movement lies in its rapid date correction device, which allows adjustment at any time, without altering the operation of the watch. A large sapphire crystal case-back allows you to contemplate the operation of this exceptional movement and, in particular, that of its personalised weight with a design inspired by a sports car rim.
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The mechanism is COSC-certified, a first for Bell & Ross. The Swiss Official Chronometer Control Body grants it the name chronometer, a guarantee of great precision. With this new BR CAL 323 manufacture movement, the brand values precision and reliability more than ever. Both movement and case are guaranteed for five years, something that lovers of beautiful mechanical watches will appreciate.
At Bell & Ross, the Bauhaus principle that function defines design is never far away. In the genesis of the BR‑X5, the quest for performance concerns both the mechanism and the case.
Therefore, the architecture of the multi-component case favours purity and radicality, lightness and resistance. The 41mm case, made entirely of steel, is built around a watertight container, a kind of central core that protects the manufacture movement. The crown guard is machined from the same block as the container.
The square bezel with its round sapphire crystal on the dial side and the open case-back on the movement side are fixed to the two steel plates that form the top and bottom of the case. The plates-container-bezel-case-back assembly is kept watertight by four screws that pass through the thickness of the case via four columns which reinforce the solidity of the construction.
This multi-layer assembly is discreet from the front but comes into its own when looking at the BR‑X5 from the side. The hollowed-out architecture of the case middle is obvious, revealing a technical construction that optimises lightness without compromising on resistance.
The different polished, satin-brushed and micro-blasted finishes redraw the lines and surfaces of this watchmaking puzzle. A rubber ring highlights the bezel to enrich the finish of the case.
The BR‑X5 stands out from the BR 05 by its movement and its functions which are displayed in the dial. The latter features a large-aperture date window positioned at 3 o’clock and a circle-shaped power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The latter, divided into three thirds, allows you to control the autonomy of your watch. These features give the BR‑X5 a new face and its visual identity.
The design of the dial optimises the reading of information. The hours are marked by long applique metal indexes with a rhodium-plated outline, the central part of which is filled with grade X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal readability both day and night.
The flange houses the numerical indications of the minutes. The integrated steel bracelet is securely fastened to the case to form a perfectly ergonomic unit. The articulation of the attachment links offers remarkable comfort when worn.
This story first appeared on Augustman Malaysia