Revered by watch connoisseurs for their exceptional technical mastery and artistry, no watch collection is complete without a moonphase watch.
The manufacture’s Rendez-Vous Moon Serenity showcases a dial in a serene blue, with a mother-of-pearl moonphase. Set against a satin-brushed star chart are dainty gold half-sphere appliques that enthral under the light, recreating the constellations in the night sky. Forming an arc, the applied florale hour numerals that are emblematic of the Rendez-Vous collection fade into the lower section of the satin-brushed sunray dial. The bezel and sides of the 36mm pink gold case are embellished with 124 scintillating diamonds totalling 1.31 carats. A circling rose gold star can be set to indicate the time of an upcoming appointment or Rendez-Vous as the maison calls it. The heart of the timepiece is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 935, whose components can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet’s all-new collection unveiled at SIHH 2019, was the manufacture’s biggest launch since 1972. Comprising 13 models with 41mm cases, the timepieces are decidedly contemporary, like this striking Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar. A deep blue aventurine dial and subdials recall a starlit sky. The starry particles resonate with the moon indication at 6 o’clock, where a laser-engraved photographic moon image is applied on an aventurine disc. The model houses the ultra-thin self-winding manufacture Calibre 5134 – also found in the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – optimised with the collection’s signature openworked weight in 22k gold. Providing the perfect contrast to the dark-coloured dial are the 18k pink gold case, hands and applied hour markers.
The Glashütte Original 40mm PanoMaticLunar – with the Pano line’s characteristic asymmetric dial layout – makes it a familiar face to watch connoisseurs. A satin-brushed and polished red gold case frames the dark blue dial and its off-centre displays. The subdials for hours, minutes and small seconds appear within the left side of the dial, while the Panorama Date – a signature of the maison – is positioned at 4 o’clock, along with the moonphase display at 2 o’clock. The saturated blue hue is the product of a strictly controlled galvanic process designed to achieve that perfect shade. Equally strict rules govern the processes employed to apply the ultra-fine grooves on the off-centre subdials for the hours, minutes and small seconds displays. The two golden moons on the moonphase display are first cut out with a milling tool to give them their convex shape before they are polished to a shine. The heart of the elegant timepiece is the Calibre 90-02 automatic movement, while the sapphire crystal caseback offers a clear view of the finely finished movement.
Flaunting a midnight blue dial with a sunburst finish, Blancpain’s latest 40mm Villeret Quantième Complet timepiece, with a red gold case, combines a complete calendar and moonphase. On the dial are discreet apertures indicating the day of the week and month at 12 o’clock, a calendar with a serpentine hand and a moonphase display with a mischievous face at 6 o’clock. All set in red gold, the hour and minute hands are shaped like cut-out sage leaves, while the seconds hand bears the initials of the maison’s founder, Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. Driving the timepiece is the self-winding movement 6654 that is equipped with a safety system that protects it from the improper use of its functions. Patented under-lug correctors enable all information to be adjusted at the press of a finger. Movements feature decorations such as the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges, and the honeycomb pattern that can be admired on the red gold oscillating weights – all visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.
Omega’s special connection to the lunar surface gives it the impetus to create the world’s most distinguished moonphase models. With the use of a platinum-gold alloy for the brushed and polished 44.25mm case, the sand-blasted dial and the folding strap clasp, the Speedmaster Moonphase is built to impress. A proprietary material that makes a distinctive impact on this watch is Liquidmetal, in which ceramics are bonded with an alloy to create a substance that is three times harder than stainless steel. It is what makes up the two moons in a blue ceramic disc and the brushed platinum tachymeter scale on the bezel ring of matching blue ceramic. Along with the dial featuring 18k white gold indexes set with baguette-cut diamonds is another great detail – a tiny magnifying glass on a crescent moon-shaped hand in the date subdial at 9 o’clock. The wearer can admire the METAS-certified Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9905 through the sapphire crystal caseback. The movement also includes a special luxury finish with proprietary 18K Sedna. gold used for the rotor and balance bridge.
Patek Philippe reinterprets the Ref. 5726A in steel on a leather strap with this steel-bracelet version, Ref. 5726/1A, showcasing an elegant blue dial – the colour on the original 1976 Nautilus model. What’s striking about this 40.5mm model is the horizontal relief embossing and the impactful yet subtle shading from blue to black on the dial that complements the sheen of the steel. The elegant sporty exterior conceals the Calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 self-winding movement, while the annual calendar – patented by Patek Philippe in 1996 – displays the day and the month in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock and the date in an aperture at 6 o’clock. Thanks to this ingenious mechanism, the date only requires correction only once a year, on Mar 1. The 24-hour indicator in the lower half of the dial simplifies calendar adjustments, with the subdial also housing the extremely precise moonphase display, which requires correction by one day every 122 years. Like the case and bezel, the steel bracelet boasts a pronounced contrast between polished and satin finishes.
Art direction: Aaron Lee