While the Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A Nautilus in stainless steel will soon be discontinued, watch connoisseurs can look forward to a new addition to the cult range. The manufacture presented the Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus featuring a ridged sunburst dial in an elegant olive green – a brand new hue for the collection.
There’s no doubt that the new colourway suits the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus perfectly. There is also a unisex bejewelled version, Ref. 5711/1300A-001, which features a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. In almost all other respects, though, this is familiar territory for the 5711: the 4Hz 26-330 S C automatic calibre with Gyromax balance and Spiromax silicon balance spring – offering 35 to 45 hours of power – is a spin-off of the calibre 324 S C that has been in use since 2019. The 12-bar water resistance, applied hour markers and hands in white gold, and an eminently wearable 40mm by 8.3mm case size are equally par for the course.
Aside from the new dial colour, nothing has really changed with the “entry-level” Nautilus. As discreetly classy as the 5711 has been, this new edition will also be impossibly difficult to get hold of: In 2019, The New York Times reported an eight-year wait – that is, if you could even get on the list. We can only assume that you’ll have alternative ways of checking the time between now and 2029.
Among the new Tudor novelties revealed were two Black Bay Fifty-Eight divers’ watches in precious metals, one being the brand’s first ever dive watch in a silver alloy case, and the other extravagant variant, the Fifty-Eight 18K. As the name suggests, the latter comes in a 39mm solid yellow gold case, which is matched with a dial and rotating bezel in olive green.
Even more interestingly, Tudor has given the case a matte treatment, so that what might have looked blingy instead has an almost bronze appearance, which is certainly more in keeping with the Black Bay’s classic tool-watch design codes. Although we suspect that most gold dive watches rarely get closer to the waves than the deck of a superyacht, it’s also been endowed with water resistance of up to 20 bar.
A sapphire caseback reveals the manufacture calibre MT5400, which features a non-magnetic silicon hairspring, is COSC-certified with a claimed daily accuracy of +4/-2 seconds, and oscillates at 4Hz for a reserve of around 70 hours.
Wrapping up the package is an alligator strap that gives the watch a distinctly vintage appeal, and it’s also supplied with one of Tudor’s excellent matching fabric alternative in green and gold; both come with buckles in the same yellow gold.
(Main and featured image: Tudor)