Black watches: How luxury watchmakers made dark dials their own

Presented in a slew of materials, shapes and sizes, the black watch is the perfect canvas for watchmakers to demonstrate their creativity and imagination.

Harry Winston

The Premier Majestic Art Deco Automatic 36mm timepiece pays tribute to the signature aesthetic of its namesake period and art movement. The jewellery watch from The Premier Collection is instantly recognisable with its diamond-set lugs that recall the entrance to Harry Winston’s flagship salon on Fifth Avenue. The 18k white gold case is set with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel with diamonds in the crown and tips of the lugs. The monochromatic dial reveals a jazzy assortment of one emerald-cut black jade, mother-of-pearl marquetry, grey mother- of-pearl cabochons and 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, creatively set in layers to create a dramatic spectacle of depth and glamour. The timepiece is powered by a high-end Swiss mechanical automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve.

Omega

The latest Constellation Gents’ 41mm models see most of its bezels crafted in polished ceramic to replicate the look of the original 1982 Constellation Manhattan. Other style updates include bevelling along the edges of the case and claws that gives the watches a more slender look, more streamlined hands and new indexes inspired by the triangular facets of Manhattan’s Freedom Tower. Pictured here is a debonair 18k yellow gold variant featuring a polished black ceramic bezel with Roman numerals in Ceragold, a sun-brushed black dial and a date window at 6 o’clock. Presented on a black leather strap with rubber lining, this timepiece is driven by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8901, visible through the domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

Panerai

Combining high-tech features with a sportier profile, the Panerai Luminor Marina DMLS is surprisingly light and incredibly resilient, thanks to its titanium case made with Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology. The futuristic 3D-printing process involves titanium powder that takes a solid shape when sintered by a high-powered fibre optic laser. The material, along with proprietary Carbotech, is used for the bezel, crown and lever of the Safety Lock crown protection bridge. An unpolished anthracite dial with tone-on-tone Super-LumiNova indexes and numbers enhances the monochromatic theme. Waterproof up to 300m, the rugged charcoal model is powered by Panerai’s mechanical calibre P.9010 with a three-day power reserve.

Chanel

Paradoxes are Chanel’s theme of the year as the maison rolls out the radical J12 Paradoxe Diamonds that defies convention. Its unique aesthetic is the result of a highly technical feat achieved by cutting and fusing two ceramic cases of different dimensions. Like an optical illusion, two-thirds of the 18k white gold case are clad in black ceramic, while the remaining one-third – lugs, crown guards, bezel, flange and dial – is set with baguette-cut diamonds. The crown is further embellished with a 0.14-carat brilliant-cut diamond, bringing the total weight of diamonds on the timepiece to 4.54 carats. The stunning 38mm model is powered by the self-winding manufacture COSC-certified Calibre 12.1 with a 70- hour power reserve. Only 20 pieces are produced – a number paying tribute to the 20th anniversary of the J12.

Cartier

It is understandable why the Maillon de Cartier was designed by the Cartier watchmaking studios first as a jewel. A stylish bracelet whose chain links are offset and aligned on the bias plays on the maison’s classic codes, completely reinventing today’s attitudes towards the timepiece design aesthetic. Rectangular links, a hexagonal 16mm by 17mm dial that echoes the twisted bracelet shape, and bevelled brancards brandish Cartier’s historic mastery in rhythmic geometry. There are seven references in yellow, pink and white gold with precious gem and diamond variations, one of which is this breathtaking limited-edition 18k yellow gold model (only 50 pieces are available). It flaunts a case and bracelet set with 580 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a black-lacquered dial devoid of indexes.

H. Moser & Cie.

Known for its atypical interpretation of prevalent complications, independent manufacture H. Moser & Cie. incorporates avant-garde material Vantablack into the Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL timepiece. Made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically like a forest of tall trees, they absorb 99.965 per cent of visible light, which results in a surface akin to a black hole. The 43mm stainless steel model pictured here is free of the brand logo or indexes, which makes the black-coated hands appear as if they are suspended. Also available is the petite albeit pricier 39mm model in 18k white gold. Both are equipped with a hand-wound HMC 327 manufacture calibre furnished with three days of power reserve.

Bvlgari

The sleek all-black Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic of 2019 has been reinvented, with Bvlgari subjecting the ultra-thin watch to a combination of sandblasted and polished finishes. With a new signature monochromatic look, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic expertly plays with light where some facets of its ceramic case and bracelet dazzle, while others are muted in matte. The 40mm case is ultra-thin at 5.5mm but somehow manages to house the mechanical manufacture automatic movement BVL138, which is adorned with the Côtes de Genève motif, boasts a platinum micro rotor and offers 60 hours of power reserve.

This story first appeared in the August issue of Prestige Singapore.

Text: Allyson Klass and Justin Ng
Art Direction: Aaron Lee
Main and featured image: Omega