People enjoyed the old Casa Lisboa Gastronomia Portuguesa – its full name – for its mostly traditional Portuguese menu and relaxed, if formal, ambience. Seven years on, its move to the second floor of Parekh House on Wyndham Street sees a much more laidback interior: pale wooden floors, whitewashed walls, cerulean blue chairs and a wall of windows. The brightness and lightness of the new interior continues into the menu contents and dish presentation.
Native Portuguese Chef Fábio Pombo – who has worked in some of the best-rated restaurants in Lisbon – has brought that lighter touch. New dishes include Algarve red prawn with tomato, chilli, garlic and coriander which swims in a flavourful sauce that’s also made from stock using the king-size Portuguese crustacean. Portuguese octopus confit in Moscatel wine, with grilled kale and smashed potatoes presents an unbelievably tender main component, with charred edges that add depth of flavour.
Fear not, a few of the old classic signatures remain, and Pombo presents them in a more contemporary way. Slow roasted suckling pig – served on a cutting board with a side dish of rice with diced pig liver and chourico – is marinated for 24 hours and then grilled for three hours, resulting in crispy skin and very tender meat. And the house favourite of duck rice Lisboa-style with chourico and slow-roasted pork belly, the rice laden with tender duck and cooked in a duck bone broth, is a dish with wow-factor.
From the dessert list, the newbie of pineapple, vanilla ice-cream and pistachio sponge cake raviolis is a beautifully fresh finish for the sultry August weather.
Wines here offer a great Portuguese selection, including a few sparkling wines using native varietals.