Cire Trudon has an unrivalled history in candle-making. A special place in the history of the light-producing solid wax always belongs to this Paris maison who once supplied candles to the court of French kings and churches. Little did the brand know that, once its candles ceased to become a light source, and instead used as means to transform a room’s atmosphere with scents, this transition would kick-start the brand’s venture into perfumery.
“The know-how and traditions of making candles is carried to what we believe in in terms of quality. Perfume is really important for who we are even as a candle brand. Our customers are very loyal to the scent. They are very into perfume. You know we sell room sprays and our customers were actually wearing our room sprays as perfume. They liked the scent so much so going into perfume was logical path for the brand.” said Helodie Herraria, commercial director of Cire Trudon during the interview with Prestige.
“However, we wanted to do it in a way that was very different from the way we did normally.”
As Herraria explained, the usual process of making a commercial perfume is to have a team of marketers and a perfumer sit over a meeting table to discuss what kind of fragrance they want, referencing mostly existing rival perfumes.
“We wanted to change this. We made a great effort in taking perfumer outside of their normal environment,” she said.
What Cire Trudon did is to connect perfumer, or the nose, with a certain place: a museum or a gallery, for example, and a theme close to the heart of Cire Trudon’s candles such as religion, royalty or history. The Trudon perfumes are designed to trigger a feeling or a sensibility that connects you with the image or atmosphere the perfumer had in mind while concocting the scent.
“The creator of Bruma, Antoine Lie, was taken to Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in Les Marias. It’s a very odd location — a private house in Paris.” she said of the process of creating scents, starting with Bruma.
“In there, there’s an eclectic collection of weapons, armours, modern pieces and old pieces. Antoine Lie sat in a special room in the museum, the light was dimmed. There, he imagine a royal figure escaping a constraints of her castle on horseback at night to discover a part of herself in another, nearly supernatural place.”
Containing a distinguished, almost animal-like sensuality with iris as its main note, shrouded in black pepper and Haitian vetiver.
“It’s hard to describe it as florals despite having the most floral compound in all our perfumes. It’s woody, and leathery as well. Bruma means solstice — the winter’s solstice and it won the Best Independent perfume Award in 2018 from The Fragrance Foundation.”
Another fragrance that fits in Cire Trudon’s royal theme is Olim, created by Lyn Harris. It’s constructed in the 1920s tradition of an oriental perfume as established by the original Guerlain’s Shalimar with a top note of bergamot, heart note of lavender, although they are not exactly what you smell on Olim.
Olim (Latin for “once”) recalls the first four registers of the old parliament of Paris, including the numerous texts and laws delivered to the King’s court between 1254 and 1318 under different reigns, particularly St. Louis (1214-1270). Olim shines light on the evolution of royal power and the decline of 13th-century French feudalism.
“What’s original about this scent is the use of spices in the heart and base. If you think back on the story of the perfume you really see the scene in the court, the dress of a royal lady. It’s very warm and surrounding perfume.”
The third perfume focuses on the maison’s royal theme. Deux, meaning two, reimagines two people walking in a garden — an image that recalls none other than Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden. Created also by Lyn Harris, Deux is about new beginnings; the life of a forest that permeates through the seasons. It is sensually symbiotic, bringing elements together: a Cologne that inspires and paints at a magical place.
Constructed like a cologne with mostly natural ingredients, its notes of green leaves, pine and cedar give off a distinctly green scent like what you smell off fresh grass after the rain.
“It’s probably the most sharable of all perfumes. It’s probably the most personal and it’s sharable in a sense that it doesn’t have any gender favourite.”
The final creation by Harris for the house, Revolution, is a fragrance that permeates the skin, and builds up on human emotions throughout the day. It blends in, leaving an air mystery and intrigue around the body. It conjures up an image of the streets of Paris during the French Révolution, an odour of smoke and musket powder. Rage and intense emotions on the faces of the crowds. House are afire, and the cobblestones awash in oil; horses are whinnying; their and sweaty riders are robed in black leather. A touch of incense softens the air, suggesting peace is near.
“It’s interesting that we have an English perfumer on this one,” noted Herraria. “She’s able to give a perspective on the French revolution that’s not the same as the French. We used to have a candle called the Revolution so we have the name available. Lyn said ‘your customers when they smell this perfume, they would feel they need to be on the barricade, smelling the bullets flying through the air on the barricade.’ I’ve been travelling round using Revolution because it’s the one that changes the most in the whole collection. It’s evolving all the time.”
The final, and the best-selling scent in Trudon boutiques, is Mortel, created by Yann Vasnier. He’s taken to an art gallery and sat in a room full of work by an artist who has the possibility of seeing colours the ways that others can’t. The experience, in parts, informs him of the possibility of combining opposites. Mortel is a revolutionary drive that combines virile force and natural harmonies — fatal attraction. Described as “Skins heat up against one another, placing sensuality at the heart of Mortel; More, frankincense, myrrh and benzoin reveal the erotic spell of pure Cistus.”
“It’s incense kind of woody with metallic sharpness to it. it’s very sensual.”
In addition to the carefully crafted scents 3 most celebrated perfumers, the perfume bottle resembles the design of Cire Trudon’s scented candles. Created by Pauline Deltour, the rippled-glass cap evokes the elegant silhouette of La Promeneuse. In a pine-green hue, the top counterbalances the transparent bottle, inspired by blocks of crystal.
“Trudon Perfumes” are sold exclusively at BFF
Seenspace, Soi Thonglor 13, 1F, tel. 0 2069 83033
Central Plaza Ladprao, GF, tel 09 5372 5683
Paragon Department Store, Beauty Hall, MF, tel 0 2610 7796