Dance is the at heart of Dior’s Spring-Summer 2019 collection, as stated in the show note. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s dreamy, ethereal runway show on Monday literally incorporates dance performance into the presentation of 87 looks, so it would be difficult to miss the key message. But how exactly has the choreographed movements of the body inspired the Italian designer? Let’s take a closer look!
1. It influences the collection’s light and supple silhouettes.
The collection reveals its essence in lightness and extreme suppleness. The full and airy skirts, short and long tutus, volumes specific to traditional male dance costumes and the pairing of layered tulles with simple tank are all meant to make clothes correspond to the body’s movements — just like dancers’ costume.
2. It influences many shades of nude.
Perhaps one of the most controversial aspects of ballet in this time and age, the colour of tights, leotard and pointe shoes is central to Dior’s summer show. Fortunately, Chiuri seems to understand the lack of diversity of the colour “nude” in the conservative world of ballet. The designer makes sure her nude is diverse — from the palest nude to beige and almost khaki — and it suits her models of many colours so well.
3. It influences the kaleidoscopic prints.
Chiuri sees dance as a movement art and a performative act and this view informs the kaleidoscopic motif of the collection. Her particular influence for the kaleidoscopic prints and feathered embroidery is the colourful cinematic dance effects captured in old promotional posters of actress, dancer and stage lighting pioneer Loïe Fuller.
4. It influences the denim.
A modern designer through and through, Chiuri embraces contemporary moves like hip-hop in her plethora of dance influences. Her use of jeans in the collection to emphasise the relaxed silhouette is a visual allusion to hip-hop sounds.
5. It influences the shoes and headwear.
Two of the most literal influences Chiuri borrows from dance are hair accessories and shoes. Hair stylist Guido Palau uses Redken to wrap models’ hair slick around their heads before tucking it in and top with logo-ed elasticated headbands you see dancers wearing in dance class. The pointe shoes-inspired footwear is creations of braided ribbon from foot to ankle with transparent plexiglass heel.
Discover more about the collection at www.dior.com