Hugues de Pins Shares Exciting Developments about Van Cleef & Arpels’ Retail Presence in Thailand

On the eve of the launch of the Van Cleef & Arpels pop-up boutique at Central Embassy to launch a new Alhambra collection, Hugues de Pins, Managing Director South-East Asia & Oceania of Van Cleef & Arpels, provided some insight into the origin of this iconic design, and what the Maison has planned for future growth in the kingdom.

Although the four-leaf clovers first made an appearance in Van Cleef & Arpels’ designs in 1906 – along with a series of creations portraying wooden talismans, charms, and benevolent fairies – it wasn’t until 1968 that the first Alhambra long necklace, composed of 20 clover- shaped motifs, in creased yellow gold and fringed with gold beads, was created. It was an immediate success and soon became not only a token of luck, but emblematic to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Hugues de Pins, Managing Director South-East Asia & Oceania of Van Cleef & Arpels, shares the origin of what has become an iconic and highly recognisable design.

“The Alhambra collection was created in 1968, the year when there was a big shift in the way women would be perceived and perceived themselves – sort of a social cultural revolution,” he explains. “The Alhambra was first launched as a long necklace – or a sautoire, as we say in French. It was a necklace that women could wear during the day, but also in a more dressed up way in the evening. It proved very successful almost immediately.

“Over the last 50 years, it has evolved with lots of animations and other styles like earrings, pendants, bracelets, and rings. And also many different colours and different types of materials and craftsmanship techniques that are used to decorate the four-leaf clover motif.

“I think what has maybe made Alhambra so successful is, first of all, that it is so instantly recognisable as a Van Cleef & Arpels creation. The other reason is you can really play with the different colours to match your mood and your outfit; there is definitely an element of playfulness. And finally, the last reason is Alhambra offers many different stones that can sometimes be very symbolic for our clients. Each stone can bring a different kind of power, whether it is lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral, mother-of-pearl, malachite, etc. I think it can fit everyone’s personality, and brings strength, love, and luck to its owners. As Jacques Arpels (nephew of Estelle Arpels) used to say: ‘To be lucky, you have to believe in luck’. Alhambra is a symbolic piece of jewellery by nature.”

What is behind the maison’s fascination with good luck symbols, charms, tokens, and talismans, I ask Hugues.

“There has always been a strong link been jewellery and symbolism, from the earliest times,” he explains. “From the research that we know, the very first form of craftsmanship and art by man on this planet was a piece of jewellery. It was the very first thing that mankind created – something to adorn their body and to express symbolism, their feelings, and their fears. This has never changed.

“Most jewellery maisons, from the first day of their existence, have always looked for symbols and strong connections with people’s beliefs. I think when we look at Van Cleef & Arpels’ heritage of design and inspiration – not just the four-leaf clover of the Alhambra collection – other creations are very symbolic, too. For  example, you have the Touch Wood collection of bracelet and rings that are made of solid wood, so symbolism has always been a constant presence in our collections. But inspiration has also come a lot from nature in all its different shapes and forms – flora, fauna, astronomy, and oceans – as well as other sources of inspiration like love, love stories, or the world of couture. The latter because of our very strong attachment with Paris  and the world of Parisian elegance. So, all of these have been important elements of inspiration – not just luck and symbolism.”

With regard to Van Cleef & Arpels’ retail presence in Thailand – the maison’s first boutique opened at Emporium around seven years ago and over the last few years a small, temporary pop-up boutique has also been operating at Siam Paragon – Hugues has big news to share.

“Our temporary boutique at Siam Paragon will close this year, to make way for a permanent and much larger retail space (at Siam Paragon). Our Thai customers are very much appreciative of Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations, and what’s particularly nice to see is the different generations we are attracting. Thailand has also become a very important market for high jewellery, with a very big appreciation for rare gemstones and craftsmanship.”

(The pop-up boutique on the ground floor of Central Embassy where the latest Alhambra collection is on display, can be visited until February 19.)

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