D. Designer: “I don’t call myself a designer, nor do I call myself an image-maker. I don’t reject the label of either. I am not trying to put myself on a pedestal, nor am I trying to be more, now.” – Virgil Abloh, artistic director of Louis Vuitton for menswear.
Finally, the moment has revealed where Virgil Abloh, the architect, who owns the Milan-based brand, Off-White, and former creative director for Kanye West, has made his first full collection with Louis Vuitton for the men’s universe SS19 collection. The show was held at the gardens of the Palais Royal, Paris. Through a straight, long runway, the models walked on the spray-painted rainbow spectrum runway. It was a defining and cherised moment for the designer and the brand!
F – Fandom
A two-way worship between a designer and his clientele, fashion fandom mimics the codependent relationship between performer and supporter, a connection native to music and sports scenes.
For his 56-look collection show, he invited the students from Paris. They watched the show with A-list celebrities! Embracing the whole idea of diversity, the model line-up also consists of representatives from every continent in the world, which was shown on a map that read “We are the world”.
Let’s see the collection through his vocabulary!
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A – Accessomorphosis
A portmanteau describing the transformation of an accessory into a garment, effectively evolving its functional form.
J – Jewellery
Objects of decoration often characterized by an all-that glitters-is-gold understanding of ornamentation, the Spring-Summer 2019 jewellery appears in ceramics or unrarefied metals denoting a contrasting celebration of non-precious materials.
The irony of a generation raised on extravagance, and the makedo and mend sensibility of those with access to it.
A greige gradient of white, which alters a component familiar to all. It serves as a blank canvas for perception and interpretation.
O – Oz
A fantasy land visited by country girl Dorothy in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. Upon arrival, after a cyclone transports her there, she tells her dog, “Toto, I have a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”
P – Palette
Black, white, off-white, and taupe. Ruby shoe red, brick road yellow, tin man metallic, garland green, and rainbow.
A ruby red flower, whose exceptionally fragile structure is contrasted by its psychedelic, narcotic properties and hallucinogenic powers.
R – Rainbow
A kaleidoscopic palette evolving from off-white to polychromatic, synchronously forming a holographic archway known to represent dreams. A motif in The Wizard of Oz, which provides construct to the Spring-Summer 2019 collection.
S – Staple
A twisted piece of metal that holds two elements together. A term for the essential garments and accessories in a wardrobe.
S – Streetwear
A predictable clothing genre in a renegade designer’s debut collection as part of the fashion establishment, but one whose sportswear properties are undergoing a critical transformation into luxury.
Virgil Abloh’s favourite colour since 1980.
A wealth of motifs identifying a designer’s most original origins and generational pride, they serve as the earliest memory of a boy raised by a Ghanaian tailor mother and her traditional West African garb.
U – Utility
Once the luxury of workwear, utilitarian elements now provide fashion with equal parts functionality and pleonasm. It is the usefulness of a multi-pocket gilet, and the irony of wallet situated at the ankle.