Grand Seiko Celebrates 25 Years of the Calibre 9S with Two Special Models

The debut of the Calibre 9S in 1998 marked a new era for Grand Seiko, as it reaffirmed the brand’s commitment to accurate mechanical watchmaking. To celebrate this legendary moment, the watchmaker has introduced a pair of limited-edition watches that draw visual inspiration from Japan’s Mt. Iwate.

The Grand Seiko brand was launched in 1960 by Seiko but has since become an independent entity. Its entry into the market was well-timed as Japan’s reputation for precision mechanics and attention-to-detail across industries was on the rise.

The impetus for Seiko to branch out into luxury watches stemmed from the desire to create timepieces that were on par with their Swiss counterparts in regard to quality, while still boasting a distinctive Japanese look and feel.

Taro Tanaka, the designer who was tasked with conceptualising the Grand Seiko’s earliest timepieces, made the decision to embrace certain visual codes such as mirrored finishes and brushed surfaces, which have gone on to become some of the brand’s signature traits.

Another important trait of Grand Seiko’s watches is exceptional precision across its many celebrated calibres, all of which are developed at the Seiko Watch Studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture in Japan. Here, a talented team of watchmakers meticulously craft each watch by hand, including the models that house the celebrated 9S series of automatic calibres.

With a multitude of research and development taking place across almost three decades, this series now boasts calibres with different functions, calibres that have been enriched with new alloys for the main and balance springs, as well as calibres centred on MEMS engineering, also known as Micro Electromechanical Systems, which allow key components of a movement to be manufactured to a tolerance of one-thousandth of a millimetre.

Although more advanced in comparison to the initial movements created by Grand Seiko’s lead designer Nobuhiro Kosugi and his team in 1998, the foundations of the new 9S calibres remain the same.

The brand’s two newest launches still embody Grand Seiko’s commitment to mechanical excellence and understated beauty, and feature the same case design and diameter as the first watch ever created to house the 9S movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Calibre 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGH311

The first of the commemorative watches boasts a silver dial with a unique texture that aims to evoke the sight of the sea of clouds that cover Mt. Iwate in Iwate Prefecture, Japan, where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are constructed.

A truly breathtaking scene, it is only visible at daybreak when the air is still and humid, allowing the dense clouds to overlap to create a silvery-white sea.

The watch features a clear sapphire crystal case back through which the Grand Seiko emblem can be seen set into the titanium oscillating weight. The distinct colour for this component pays homage to the deep-blue sky above the sea of clouds that surround Mt. Iwate’s peak.

This special blue colour is generated using an anodic oxidation process, a surface treatment in which metals are subjected to electrolysis to artificially generate an oxide film. Titanium oxide film produces colour according to the light refraction index, which allows it to change colour depending on the thickness of the oxide film.

The commemorative watch is equipped with a new Hi-Beat 36000 automatic mechanical Calibre 9S85, which is hand crafted. It has an accuracy rate of +5 ~ -3 seconds per day and delivers a power reserve of 55 hours.

This watch is limited to 1,200 pieces and will be initially exclusive to Grand Seiko Boutique Online this month. In February it will be made available at Grand Seiko boutiques and select retail partners worldwide.

The Calibre 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGR325

The second commemorative timepiece features a blue dial that draws inspiration from the clear and broad sky that can be seen from the top of Mt. Iwate, another stylish tribute to the hub of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking history.

The dial boasts a striking sunray finish that reflects light from every angle as well as the Grand Seiko logo in a rich gold colour as a nod to the original 9S movement. The dial is a fitting backdrop for the diamond-cut hour and minute hands and indexes, as well as the seconds hand that is tempered in blue.

In a similar vein to the aforementioned SBGH311 model, the oscillating weight boasts the signature Grand Seiko blue colour that is a result of the same anodic oxidation process and can be viewed in detail through the sapphire crystal case back.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 9S65, which has a mean daily rate of +5 ~ -3 seconds per day and a three-day power reserve.

This watch is limited to 1,200 pieces and will be available at Grand Seiko boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in April 2023.

For more information about both models, click here.