Stylist ANDREW XUAN
Photographer XERXES LEE @ AWESOME IMAGE
A closer look at the latest precious novelties from Patek Philippe.
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- Ref. 5235/50R-001
- Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie Ref. 4978/400G
- Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar Ref. 5905R-001
- Minute Repeater Rare Handcrafts Ref. 5078G-010
- Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
- Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001
- Grandmaster Chime Rare Handcrafts Ref. 6300G-010
- Twenty~4 Automatic Haute Joaillerie Ref. 7300/1450R-001
- Calatrava Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4899/901G-001
Released in 2019, the new Ref. 5235/50R-001 marks as the brand’s very first regulator-style wristwatch. The 40.5mm case comes in a brilliant rose gold material and the dial contrasts it nicely with a combination of graphite and ebony-black with a vertical satin finish. As with a watch of this calibre, the detailing on the dial is immaculate. It offers white transfer-printed indications and a railroad track as a nod to the past, while the rings of rose gold around each sub-dial will hardly go unnoticed.
Powering this gorgeous watch is the Patek Philippe calibre 31-260 REG QA self-winding movement which is notable for its frequency of 23,040 semi-oscillations per hour (3.2Hz). The movement also features technologies that were developed in the Patek Philippe Advanced Research department, equipping the regulating organ with the Pulsomax escapement and a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar. In order to be self-winding, the Ref. 5235/50R-001 comes with a 22k gold micro-rotor that is in full view via the sapphire crystal caseback.
If you loved the Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie from 2016 (Ref. 4968) you’ll love this new reference even more. Created as a replacement to that model, this new high- jewellery piece still boasts the same hypnotic swirl of diamonds on the dial but the entire case has been enlarged from 33.3 mm to 36.5 mm in white gold. This gives the new Ref. 4978 an even more impressive presence on the wrist and counts a total of 770 diamonds (4.4ct), all of which are of Top Wesselton Pure quality and are cut and set to to the highest principles of the gem-setter’s art.
Where most flyback chronographs usually come with a busy dial, this Ref. 5905R offers the coveted complication but with the clean elegance that has become synonymous with Patek Philippe. Instead of a double or triple register display, the flyback chronograph has only one 60-minute counter located on the bottom half of the dial. The calibre CH 28-520 QA 24H movement powering the watch offers not only an automatic flyback chronograph but also the annual calendar complication, patented by Patek back in 1996. This new version in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial replaces the platinum case of the 2015 model.
Anybody who is a fan of Patek Philippe is already well aware of the particular pride they take in their Minute Repeaters. And this year they give the Ref. 5078 a dial of such extraordinary beauty, it rivals the craftsmanship of the minute repeater movement housed within. The dial has a base of 18k gold which is covered by an exquisite black enamel featuring scrolling arabesques with contrasting matt and polished surfaces. The white gold case, on the other hand, is in a classic 38mm size while the movement is the calibre R 27 PS which, of course, has been aurally tested individually by the president of the manufacture.
Following Patek Philippe’s annual calendar complication which was patented in 1996, this year the manufacture unveiled yet another complication to its calendar watches with the weekly calendar. Powered by the completely new, self-winding, calibre 26-330 S C J SE, the Ref. 5212A-001 can display the day, date, and even count the week number making it particularly useful even in the smartphone era. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case, the silvery opaline dial features a distinctive layout with great legibility. Even the typography was specifically designed for the timepiece and resembles authentic handwriting similar to the kind found notes jotted down in paper diaries.
For years, Patek Philippe’s Travel Time system for displaying a second time zone has been a godsend for the customers who are never in one place for too long. Now, after five years of development, the Ref. 5520P-001 has managed to combine this useful complication along with a 24-hour alarm mechanism, elevating the watch’s functionality to new heights. The 42.2mm case in platinum comes with three pushers and the crowns, each controlling a specific function of the Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS movement. The local time can be adjusted via the two pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock while the pusher at 2 o’clock, adorned with a little bell toggles the alarm on/off. The home time, date and alarm time can be set via the crown at the 4 o’clock position.
To be able to take a commemorative piece and put it into regular production says something about a brand’s manufacturing capabilities. Especially so if that piece was the flagship of the manufacture’s 175th-anniversary collection. The Ref. 6300G-010 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with grande and petite sonnerie complications and is also a double-face reversible model. Within Its 20 complications, there are five chiming modes, including two patented world firsts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected time and a date repeater sounding the date on demand. Unsurprisingly, the calibre 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM manually wound movement of the Ref. 6300G-010 is considered the most complicated movement in regular production. For 2019 this behemoth gets new, blue opaline dials.
This year, not only did ladies get a brand new Nautilus, but Patek Philippe also unveiled an Haute Joaillerie version of the Twenty~4 Automatic. What makes the watch interesting is the fact that the diamonds on the dial, bezel, crown and bracelet, all 3238 of them (about 17.21 ct) are presented in a “random” or “snow” setting to leave the least possible gold surface between the stones. In compliance with the criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal, all the diamonds are of Top Wesselton Pure quality and impeccable cut.
If you remember, the first Ref. 4899 was launched back in 2017 and it came with extremely feminine decoration, combining white gold, engraved mother-of-pearl and precious stones, all in a palette of pink. This year, the Ref. 4899/901G-001 will be its replacement and this time, offers the same Haute Joaillerie techniques but in shades of blue. Thus, the mother-of-pearl with the hand-engraved feather motif on the dial is in delicate blue tints and even the “snow” set diamonds on the dial and case are interspersed with sapphires in different shades of blue.